Communicating with a car’s ECU (Engine Control Unit) can help to resolve problems and keep the vehicle in good working order. If the engine management light (EML) appears on the dashboard, then the reason why can be found via the ECU. Sometimes, problems may not activate the EML, but the ECU will still have them logged. And the ECU can also determine when the engine needs servicing and whether specific equipment is working properly.

What is an OBD2 scanner?

So how do you communicate with the ECU to find out all of this information? Simple, through a scanner or fault code reader plugged into a communication port on the car. This communication port has been standardized and is now called the OBDII port. OBD stands for on board diagnostics, and the number II means it’s the second generation. It’s usually below the driver’s side of the dashboard, but can also be in the center console area.

OBD2 became a standard connection in the US from around 1996. In Europe, it became standard on gasoline (petrol) cars from 2001 and diesels from 2004.

How I tested the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners

All of the scanners I’m testing consist of a small plug/dongle, which communicates with a mobile phone or laptop via a Bluetooth signal. They are generally much cheaper than dedicated scanners with their own screens.

From the seven Bluetooth scanners I have tested, they all have similar setup procedures. The first stage is to download an app to your phone or laptop. Some of the scanners have their own dedicated apps. Others have a choice of several third-party apps.

The next stage is to plug in the Bluetooth device into your car’s OBD2 port. Then switch on the ignition and open the app on your phone or laptop. I found establishing a connection between the device and my phone or laptop was very straightforward.

I’ve been involved in car diagnostics for several years. So I was keen to know whether these devices at the cheaper end of the market are any good. Read on to find out more.

Best Bluetooth OBD2 Scanners At A Glance:

• Best Overall & Best Value: vLinker MC+. RRP: $59.99 Buy / £59.95 Buy.
• Editor’s Choice: OBDeleven. RRP: $88.34 Buy /£69.95 Buy.
• Approved: TopDon TopScan. RRP: $69.99 Buy / £59.49 Buy.

vLinker MC+

Award: Best Overall & Best Value
Pros: Clear display to show what’s happening, which helps with connecting to an app.
Cons: Wide choice of third-party apps, so it may take time to find the right one for you.
RRP: From $59.99 Buy now / £59.95 Buy now

Chinese electronics manufacturer vGate produces a long list of scanners. The vLinker MC+ promises to be easy to use, and it is. The front face has a clear display of labelled lights to tell you whether it’s connected and if there’s a power supply problem. There’s even a connect button to help pair with an app. Several third-party apps can be used on a smartphone (Android or iOS) or a Windows-based PC or laptop.

Depending on which app you choose, the level of information can be very in depth with the vLinker MC+. I used the app called Car Scanner. It helped to correctly diagnose a parking sensor fault on an Audi A3. It provided an in-depth check of the car’s systems. And it could display live data to monitor engine values, calculate fuel consumption and even acceleration times.

For more information about the vLinker MC+ scanner, be sure to check out the full review.

OBDeleven

Award: Editor’s Choice. 
Pros: No-nonsense fault code scanner that’s simple to use.
Cons: Better suited to VAG, BMW and a few other makes.
RRP: From $88.34 Buy now /£69.95 Buy now

One of the smallest in this best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners test, this proved difficult to unplug from the OBD2 socket on some cars. Luckily, a keyring attachment helps and a universal extension cable will also fix this problem.

A dedicated app is used with this device, which is tailored to some makes, such as VAG, BMW and Rolls-Royce. When tested on two vehicles, it sometimes managed to identify it, but otherwise requested the VIN to be entered.

The entry-level free app is basic, but purposeful. It scans for faults and in some cases, performs an in-depth scan of several systems (e.g. audio, parking sensors and airbags). Identified faults are listed with relevant fault codes and further information to help.

There’s not much else to the free app, other than identifying fault codes (on some of the makes we’ve mentioned, live data is available). If you want extra features, such as one-click apps to change the settings on the car or test systems, it costs. Either upgrade to one of the Pro packages (annual subscription from $53.29) or buy credits from $2.19.

With a two-year warranty and a straightforward scanning app for free, the OBDeleven is a no-nonsense device that does its job well.

Check out Rob’s full review of the OBDeleven here.

TopDon TopScan

Award: Approved
Pros: Excellent dedicated software for finding faults.
Cons: Doesn’t work on 32-bit Android phones.
RRP: $69.99 Buy now / £59.49 Buy now

TopDon have been making car diagnostic tools for professional mechanics for many years, but this Bluetooth scanner appeals to the DIY market. A dedicated app needs to be downloaded to a mobile phone, although I found some trouble here with incompatibility for 32-bit Android phones (needs 64-bit). This problem didn’t arise with any other apps and scanners. For iPhones with iOS 10 or later, an app called TopGuru is required, but we didn’t find this out until I’d contacted the support center. Luckily, both the US- and China-based centers responded quickly.

Otherwise, the app is quick to install and to communicate with the TopDon scanner. A scan for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) found one concerning parking sensors. Only two other scanners found this (OBDeleven and vLinker MC+). Vehicle identification didn’t work in our case, so we had to choose the vehicle, starting with the manufacturer. I liked the assortment of Hot Functions, such as resetting an oil service and a new battery. However, there’s no live data stream, freeze-frame or dashboard, so you can’t view live engine data. And the app is only free for one year – pay $49-$99 for another year’s subscription.

Fore more details on the TopDon scanner, check out Rob’s full review here.

OBDLink CX

Pros: Free app, but also works with other apps, such as BimmerCode.
Cons: Very small device, so difficult to unplug from OBDII port.
RRP: From $79.99 Buy now  or £78 Buy now

This is the entry-level Bluetooth scanner from American-based OBDLink. It’s also one of the smallest devices, so it can be tucked inside a glovebox or center console to be stored on board the vehicle. It’s so small that I struggled to grip and unplug it from the OBDII port. However, UK supplier Gendan sells a 20cm-long (8in) extension cable that fixes this problem.

There’s a small user guide that’s easy to follow, including a QR code to download a free app. Once installed on a phone, simply start your car’s engine, plug in the device, launch the app and wait. It took a couple of attempts to connect, but it was quick. The app is very straightforward with a simple menu system.

The diagnostics aspect is quick to respond, but this failed to spot an existing fault relating to parking sensors on a car.

I liked the dashboard option, which provides useful readings for engine rpm, speed, MAF pressure, battery voltage and fuel. This can be combined with freeze-frame data should a fault be logged. And the app can log a trip, calculating fuel consumption and mileage. Or live data can be displayed as a graph.

There are more features with other more expensive scanners from OBDLink, but this CX version is a useful introduction.

OBDLink CX full review.

OBDLink MX+

Pros: Free app with enhanced diagnostics.
Cons: Not much better than the much-cheaper CX.
RRP: From $139.95 Buy now / £129.95 Buy now

OBDLink’s top-of-the-range Bluetooth scanner packs some punch and comes with lots of free features. It’s also the most expensive one in this test. It requires an app on a mobile phone or even a Kindle Fire, which is quick to install. Connecting the two is also quick and hassle-free. Simply plug in the scanner to the car’s OBDII port and open the app. And a button on the scanner helps if it doesn’t work. A short user guide makes it all easy to do.

The dedicated app from OBDLink is also very easy to use. There are only seven menu options.

The depth of diagnostic analysis, especially using enhanced diagnostics is impressive and it found a parking sensor fault that hadn’t raised an EML.

Other features, such as live data, can be analyzed in a number of ways. A Dashboard provides instrument readouts. A Graph function shows plotted readouts for comparisons. A Map function helps to data log a journey to find data parameters and calculate MPG. And there’s a Performance function that calculates acceleration times.

The MX+ is worth the extra money over the CX if you want to dig deeper with enhanced diagnostics. Otherwise, save yourself $40 and buy the cheaper CX.

OBDLink MX+ full review.

UniCarScan UCSI-2100

Pros: Big choice of free dedicated and generic apps.
Cons: Wide choice of apps may seem bewildering.
RRP: From $79.99 Buy now / £54 Buy now

Made by WGSoft of Germany, the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 is a compact Bluetooth OBD2 scanner that works with a wide range of apps. And these apps are available on cell phones (iOS and Android) and a Windows-operated PC or laptop. Some are dedicated to a particular make of car, such as BMW and Opel. Others are generic, including WGSoft’s own app called ScanMaster.

Once plugged into a car’s OBDII port, connection to a phone or laptop is fast. Depending on which app is used, the level of detail is quite comprehensive. In ScanMaster, for instance, there are nine menu options, although some features require an in-app purchase. Trouble codes are quick to be revealed, but in testing they failed to find a parking sensor problem. Freeze-frame data is a useful feature for showing values when a fault arises. And live data helps to analyze engine data to further diagnose a problem.

As a device that can be stored inside a glovebox for use in an emergency, and to also be used to check for faults at every service interval, this is a useful and cheap solution.

Here’s Rob’s full review of the UniCarScan scanner.

vLinker FD+

Pros: Supported by a wide range of third-party Windows, Android and iOS apps.
Cons: Works with a wide range of apps, so you may have to test a few to find the right one.
RRP: From $49.99 Buy now / £42 Buy now

Manufactured by vGate of China, but available worldwide. A compact Bluetooth scanner that has a display on the face to tell you it’s connected, once it’s plugged in. Removing it from the OBD2 socket in a car can be awkward due to its size.

Choosing which third-party app to use it with can be a minefield. There’s a huge choice and also some dedicated apps. Pairing with a cell phone or Windows-based laptop is straightforward and it all works smoothly. Depending on which app is used, you can expect lots of in-depth information on faults and what they mean. Plus, live data can be viewed to analyze a potential problem.

A good introduction into the world of diagnostics and live data retrieval.

vLinker FD+ full review.

How to buy the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners

Deciding on the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanner for you can seem like an impossible task. There’s no easy answer. Start by thinking about what you want from one of these devices. If it’s simply to diagnose an EML when it lights up on the dashboard, then all of the scanners tested will do this. However, some offer in-depth diagnostics for specific makes of cars, which helps, but only if your car is included. So if you have a BMW for instance, I recommend buying one of the scanners that works with the BimmerCode app.

Don’t assume that all the scanners will communicate with your car. Newer cars (from 2017 onwards) use a CAN-Bus (Common Area Network) system for communicating with the ECU. This is a type of OBDII protocol, which some of the scanners cater for. If this applies to your car, check with the manufacturer or supplier of the Bluetooth scanner before buying. I found everyone I contacted was very helpful.

All of the scanners tested will reset an EML by clearing fault codes. You may want more reset functions, such as resetting an oil service light. In some cases you’ll have to pay extra for this. In others, it comes part of a pro package or an annual subscription.

And the same applies to extra features, such as live data, calculating MPG and a dashboard display. Useful features or gimmicks? Only you can decide.

For more information on diagnostics, visit: 

• OBD1 vs OBD2
• OBD2 Reader vs Scanner
• OBD2 Explained
• OBD2 ECU Tuning

Love modified cars? We host a number of performance car events throughout the year. Be sure to check out our Fast Car Events page for more information on what’s coming up next. 

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How I tested the TopDon TopScan

I had a couple of cars ready and waiting to plug the TopDon TopScan into their OBDII ports. On one of the cars, a 2005 Audi A3 Sportback, I knew there was an issue with a parking sensor. Would the Bluetooth scanner find it? I was also interested in finding out if I could reset things, such as an oil service. And I wanted to know if I could see live engine data. This can help to diagnose problems by looking at the behavior of the engine.

Using the TopDon TopScan

What’s in the box?

Contained in a compact and neatly organized box that’s less than five by three inches and two inches deep, there’s even less inside. The device is only three inches long and has a QR code printed on it. I later discovered this can be used to confirm a connection between the TopDon TopScanand your phone when using the app.

The only other item inside the box is a small user guide that’s straightforward to understand. After reading through it, I was confident I could be up and running in a matter of minutes.

Downloading the TopScan app

I immediately hit one major obstacle when attempting to download the dedicated app for the TopDon TopScan. Armed with a one-year-old Samsung Galaxy A13 running Android 13, I searched through the Google Play Store to find TopScan, but discovered it could not be installed on the phone. There was no reason why. The user guide didn’t offer any help, so I emailed TopDon in the US and China. I soon received a reply explaining the phone has 32-bit architecture and the TopScan app needs 64-bit. An app called AIDA64 can be downloaded to identify whether the phone’s CPU has 32- or 64-bit.

Undeterred, I tried looking for TopScan via the App Store on an iPhone. I tried three such phones, but couldn’t find anything, so contacted support again. A reply within a few hours recommended looking for an app called TopGuru. There was no mention of this in the user guide.

However, by this time, I’d borrowed a Google Pixel 3A and managed to install the TopDon TopScan app for an Android operating system (7 onwards).

Connecting app and TopDon TopScan OBD2 scanner

Upon launching the TopScan app, everything ran very smoothly. I had to register for the first time using an email address to activate the scanner. Then the app was opened, the scanner plugged into the car’s OBDII port and the two were quickly paired. Had it not worked so smoothly, the user guide explained how to enter a serial code on the scanner or use a QR code displayed on it.

Using the app

Although TopDon’s literature suggests a car’s VIN can be automatically identified, meaning details on make and model are provided, this didn’t work. Instead, I had to select this criteria, which didn’t take long. It took longer to run through a comprehensive auto scan, which was very thorough. TopScan correctly identified our parking sensor fault. And it even displayed the correct fault code (P01547).

As a diagnostic tool, I was impressed with the performance of the TopDon TopScan Bluetooth scanner. And it’s quite powerful. For instance, it can actively test some equipment. I also liked the eight different functions for resetting a service light, battery or electronic park brake (EPB). It’s disappointing to not have any live data or a dashboard of gauges, which can help to check engine values, such as coolant temperature.

What I also don’t like is that the app is only available for one year. It will then need to be renewed, which currently costs $49 for the basic Lite version (included), or $99 for the Pro, which covers injector coding, seat and window calibration (13 reset functions). With the scanner costing $79.99 on Amazon, there’s only $30 between a Lite subscription and a new unit.

TopDon TopScan verdict

As a diagnostic tool, the TopScan from TopDon is sophisticated and worth the money. Anyone with a 32-bit Android phone won’t be able to use the app. And anyone wanting gimmicks such as a dashboard and live data should look elsewhere. The annual subscription is pricey – a bit like buying a printer, only to find a new ink cartridge costs nearly as much. For a scanner that takes most of its functions from professional equipment, it’s a good performer for diagnostic work.

TopDon TopScan OBD2 Scanner RRP: $89.99, buy here / £69.99, buy here.

Be sure to check out our best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners guide for more information on scanners.

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Many of us dread the sight of the engine management light, or to give it the official title, malfunction indicator light (MIL). Perhaps it’s the fear of the unknown, or the acceptance that your bank account might be about to take a beating. Whatever the reason may be, it’s always much better to tackle that little light with a more optimistic outlook. Not only could the Zen mindset save you a bit of stress, but on top of that, MILs often have an easy fix. It may be something, or it may be nothing, but whatever’s going on under your car’s hood, an OBD2 scanner will give you the anxiety-quashing answers you need.

Gone are the days of expensive equipment that only professional mechanics would have, nowadays you can get hold of some great OBD2 scanners without breaking the bank. In the world of modern motoring, a portable OBD2/EOBD scanner is a seriously useful bit of kit to have in your arsenal. So, without further ado, here’s some of the best fault code readers that you can buy today.

Best OBD2 Scanners At a Glance

Under £100/$100

• Best Buy: Foxwell NT301. RRP: £77.20, buy here / $89.99, buy here.
• Best Budget Buy: Foxwell NT200. RRP: £38.95, buy here. Not available in the US.
• Best Bluetooth OBD2 scanner: vGate vLinker MC+. RRP: £54.89, buy here / $62.99, buy here.
• Recommended: Autel AutoLink AL419. RRP: £69.00 (new AL519 model), buy here. $75.00, buy here.

Under $200/£200

• Recommended: Foxwell NT680 Lite. RRP: £199.52, buy here. $199.95, buy here.
• Recommended: Launch CRP123 Premium. RRP: £139.00, buy here. Not available in the US.

Best OBD2 Scanners Under £100/$100

Foxwell NT301

Award: Best Buy
RRP: £77.20, buy here / $89.99, buy here.

This is a good example of the more you pay, the more you get. When compared to other entry level options, by spending an additional 30-50%, you get a larger full-colour screen with a graphical menu, and more clearly-labelled buttons. Foxwell supplies the NT301 with a rubber-coated surround, a 92cm lead and a separate USB lead to connect to a PC for updates and generating printouts. Aside from these more upmarket features, the reader performs similar functions to its cheaper rivals, so for the extra money, you’re getting a reader that is easier to use and is larger and more colourful.

For example, it caters for the same range of vehicles, provides live and freeze-frame data, reads I/M readiness data, can clear fault codes and switch off the MIL. However, there are some additional features up its sleeve too, such as its ability to record and play back live data, or convert that data into figures or a graph. Some engine components can be tested and there’s an emissions monitor status (three different warning symbols, whereby one of them is illuminated), which can be used with the engine running to identify emissions-related problems.

When I connected the NT301 to our Peugeot 107 test car, with its pre-generated faults and illuminated MIL, the device beeped and its red exclamation warning illuminated on the front panel. The correct fault codes were displayed alongside a definition of each, with the EVAP fault being classed as pending.

Based on price and features in the low budget category, we found the Foxwell NT301 ticked more boxes than its competitors, thus earning it our Best Buy award for this segment of the market, earning it a spot on the list of the best OBD2 scanners.

Foxwell NT200

Award: Best Budget Buy
RRP: £38.95, buy here. Not available in the US.

You can use the Foxwell NT200 with all 2001+ petrol and 2004+ diesel cars with an OBDII port, although it can also communicate with many Euro Fords dating back to the mid-nineties and various American models from 1996 onwards.

Foxwell stipulates that this tool is suitable for diagnosing engine-related fault codes, but it cannot switch off a service indicator light, an airbag light, or ABS light. However, it can clear engine fault codes, enabling you to fix a problem, clear the codes and see whether it returns.

You can monitor intermittent faults live, which is useful for figuring out what activates them when the engine is running. Plus, you can monitor engine data, such as intake temperature or ambient temperature, to help identify a problem. There’s also a freeze-frame option to view recorded engine data at the point a fault has occurred, along with an I/M readiness view where you can view emissions-related checks.

Thousands of fault code definitions are stored inside this handheld reader, so there’s no need to translate them, and many manufacturer-specific fault codes are available as well. Plus the tool uses software which you can update via a PC (updates are free for the life of the tool). Any logged faults that are retrieved are displayed one at a time on screen along with a definition – our Peugeot 107 test car was correctly diagnosed by the NT200 after I had disconnected the plugs for the CPS and EVAP purge solenoid.

vGate vLinker MC+

Award: Best Bluetooth Scanner
RRP: £54.89, buy here. $59.89, buy here.

I tested the vLinker MC+ very recently and was surprised with just how versatile it is. Built by Chinese electronic manufacturer vGate is easy to use and is compatible with several apps on Android, iOS and Windows.

I put the vLinker MC+ to the test by using a test Audi A3 with a parking sensor failure. The Bluetooth scanner quickly discovered the fault (I used the Car Scanner app) as well as provided an in-depth check of the car’s systems. In fact, the scanner is far more detailed that I expected. You can display live data to monitor engine values, as well as fuel consumption and even acceleration times. Read my full vLinker MC+ review here.

Autel AutoLink AL419

Award: Recommended
RRP: £69.00 (new AL519 model), buy here / $75.00, buy here.

Supplied in a neat soft carrycase with a detachable lead (data link connector) and a 65-page user’s manual printed in a sufficiently large font, this OBD2 scanner provides all of the features offered by the Foxwell products above. This includes coverage of petrol vehicles from 2001 onwards and diesels from 2004, the ability to identify generic and manufacturer-specific fault codes, switch off the MIL and clear fault codes, display live and freeze-frame data and show I/M readiness data. You can look up fault codes (DTC) via a library with a definition displayed on-screen, and there’s also a code breaker function that provides further information on a fault. On top of that, these fault codes and information can be updated online by plugging the device into an internet-connected PC (USB cable supplied).

The control buttons are clearly labelled and comprehensive, with a dedicated I/M and a help button. The I/M button is a little frustrating because the device runs through a full language/protocol check each time, even if it has already done this.

It’s clear that for your money when compared to the other cheaper devices, you generally get a more rugged-looking reader with a carrycase and detachable lead, but is it worth the extra cash if the rest of the features seem similar to what Foxwell offers? The overall device is much easier to use, but some people may think that doesn’t justify the extra expense.

When I connected the device to our test Peugeot 107 with its two pre-determined faults, one of its warning symbols illuminated and both fault codes were correctly listed and defined under the Read Codes menu option.

Best OBD2 Scanners Under $200/£200

Foxwell NT680 Lite

Award: Recommended
RRP: £199.52, buy here / $199.52, buy here.

Supplied in a plastic-moulded carrycase with a detachable lead (data link connector), the Lite version of the Foxwell NT680 is significantly cheaper than the Pro version, so is it worth buying? Well, the Lite certainly seems to offer a lot, especially for the engine-related criteria this test is focusing on. It can cater for the usual wide range of vehicles (2001-on for petrol engines and 2004-on for diesels), and can also reset the service light. Plus, while it’s not relevant to our test, it covers ABS, airbags and gearbox faults and can also communicate with the electronic park brake on 42 marques of vehicle.

When I connected the NT680 Lite to our Peugeot 107 after disconnecting its wiring plugs for the CPS and EVAP purge solenoid, it correctly displayed a stored code for the CPS (fault code and description) and a pending code for the EVAP. I also tried connecting and diagnosing faults using the Lite’s manufacturer-specific diagnostics. This requires you to select the continent of manufacture (Europe), then the manufacturer, model and engine, which opens up various aspects for assessment: ABS, ECU, gearbox and airbag, for example. This route provided access to a much deeper range of systems and live data that goes beyond what the universal EOBD/OBDII route can do.

In this price category, I felt that NT680 Lite offered the best value for money based on the fact that it’s the cheapest device to offer an oil reset function and performs well when analysing faults and live data via the EOBD and manufacturer-specific routes. However, I also found it offered the best overall features for its price. So I chose this as Fast Car’s Best Buy for mid-to-high budgets.

Launch CRP123 Premium

Award: Recommended
RRP: £139.00, buy here. Not available in the US.

This is Launch’s entry-level fault code reader and is the only device in our test that has a two-year warranty. It’s certainly a professional-looking OBD2 scanner at a moderate price, but are looks all you get for your money, or does it offer any additional features? Launch supplies the landscape-shaped device a rubberized protective surround and a separate data link connector cable, but no carrycase.

The typical features for an OBD2 scanner are available, including diagnosing and clearing fault codes, looking them up via a DTC library, switching off the MIL, viewing live and freeze-frame data and assessing I/M monitors. This device will also cater for transmission, ABS and airbag (SRS) systems, although we’re not looking at these for this test.

I liked the simplistic layout of the screen, which begins with three menu options for Diagnose, Settings and Help. Diagnose leads to three more options for EOBD, Scan and Review. The Help options are impressive, with a DTC library and a useful explanation of abbreviations.
Our fault code testing using the Peugeot 107 was successfully diagnosed by the Launch CRP123 using the EOBD route, which correctly displayed each fault code alongside a definition.

We tried to communicate with the 107’s ECU via a manual scan approach, which requires the make and model to be selected along with the system in use. I could then retrieve and clear fault codes and view live data (data stream), although the latter option failed on our old Peugeot 107, but I could appreciate the greater potential for manufacturer-specific diagnostics that the Launch CRP123 offers.

How were the best OBD2 scanners tested?

For an OBD2 scanner to be tested effectively, the car you connect to should already be throwing fault codes. This allows the device to search the car and note down faults. As a result, we used two vehicles, a Peugeot 107 and an Audi A3, both of which had different faults. The Peugeot 107 was showing an Engine Management Light, while the Audi A3 was suffering from a faulty parking sensor. Each OBD2 scanner on test was able to identify the correct faults, while some offered a description as to what the fault was.

What is an OBD2 scanner?

An OBD2 scanner is simply a device that can connect to your vehicle’s diagnostics via an OBD2 port located in your car. The device is able to connect with the vehicle and display a variety of different vehicle diagnostics, with its primary use being the ability to read fault codes being shown by the vehicle. Fault codes can arise from all manner of different issues, covering both minor and major faults. By connecting to the vehicle, you, or a professional, is able to correctly diagnose a fault based on the code being shown. It’s a vital piece of equipment that mechanics use to resolve issues.

Be sure to check out our guide on OBD2 scanners vs readers for more information on diagnostic tools.

Looking for more tools and tech for your garage? Check these out:

• Best screwdriver sets
• Best car battery jump starters
• Best cordless ratchets & drivers
• Best tool set for beginners

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A car polisher can be useful for rectifying faded paintwork or removing unsightly swirl marks. It can also help to produce a glaring shine to your car’s paintwork. But the results can be disastrous if you don’t know what you are doing. And not all polishers are the same. For example, they have different speeds. Some start up slowly to help avoid damaging the paintwork. The way a polisher rotates isn’t the same. Some have a dual action, others a random orbit and some simply rotate. I’ll explain more later.

Choosing the right polisher for you might be down to budget, but there are other considerations. Do you want mains power or battery? A brushed motor or a quieter but more expensive brushless one? A storage bag with accessories? All these questions and more are answered in this group test.

DA, random orbit and rotary explained

There are three types of classification of polisher which describe how the motor rotates. These are dual action (DA for short), random orbit (also called random orbital) and rotary.

A dual action polisher rotates in a circle and also oscillates in an off-center or random circular motion. You can see this on most DA polishers by fitting a backing pad and spinning it (check the power is off). Hold the pad and try to gently move it in a circle without spinning it. This is the off-center motion.

Random orbit polishers have a simple off-center spindle, which moves in several circular paths. They are not so random as a dual action. But a random orbit polisher produces a constantly changing rotation and oscillation. So it creates more variation in its motion than dual action.

DA and random orbit polishers have their limitations on movement. This is a measurement of how much variance the polisher has when rotating. Look for information concerning the pitch circle diameter (PCD), orbit or stroke diameter, which is usually stated in millimeters (mm).

So it seems that a random orbit polisher is better, but what about rotary polishers? They don’t offer any variance in rotation. Many of the professional polishers are the rotary type. And from the professional bodyshop people I have spoken to, they prefer these.

How I tested the best machine polishers

With faded red paintwork on my VW Bay Window camper and strange deposits on the roof of my Mk4 Mondeo, I could make use of these polishers. However, I also realized that testing these nine car polishers wasn’t just down to how they perform. I needed to look at what you get for your money. Some include a carrycase and accessories, for instance.

The length of the power cord, or whether its cordless helped to add or remove points.

I found the amount of noise and vibration was a major consideration for these polishers. Ear plugs and thick work gloves may be needed for some of them.

How each polisher performs is harder to assess than I initially expected. It’s straightforward to look at the ease of operating the controls for switching it on and adjusting the speed. But it’s not so easy to say that one polisher is ineffective and another does a better job. My skill level at buffing may be to blame.

Best machine polishers at a glance

• Best Overall & Best Value: Sealey 20V 180mm brushless rotary polisher – RRP: £148.61, buy it here.
• Editor’s Choice: DeWalt 180mm 18V brushless cordless rotary polisher – RRP: $398.42, buy it here / ~£270, buy it here.
• Approved: Draper Storm Force dual action polisher – RRP: £95.81, buy it here.

Sealey 20V 180mm brushless rotary polisher

Award: Best Overall & Best Value

Pros: Useful range of speed settings from 800rpm to 2,300rpm

Cons: Noisier than similar brushless motor polishers

RRP: £148.61, buy it here. Not available in the US – consider this instead ($207.60)

Sealey produces a range of power tools (drills, drivers and even a hedge trimmer) powered by a 20V rechargeable battery. This polisher is ideal if you already have a few of these tools. If you don’t then look out for bundle deals to save on buying separate batteries and a charger.

With a brushless motor and a selection of 180mm-diameter accessories, this is the only polisher with a couple of handles. There are six speed settings (800-2,300rpm), selected via a rotary dial. And there’s a useful lock button next to the trigger, which prevents the machine from being accidentally operated.

An initial press of the trigger results in a moderately smooth rotation of the spindle. And the harder you squeeze it, the faster the motor turns (up to whatever speed setting is selected).

Being a brushless motor, this battery-powered rotary polisher is in direct competition with the DeWalt model I have tested. Sealey’s polisher is cheaper, slightly heavier (by 1.1lb or 500g) and has a noisy high-pitched motor that left my ears ringing after use.

For more information about the Sealey 20V 180mm brushless rotary polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

DeWalt 180mm 18V brushless cordless rotary polisher

Award: Editor’s Choice

Pros: Controllable and smooth brushless motor. Low-range speeds (800rpm to 2,200rpm)

Cons: No polishing accessories included

RRP: $398.42, buy it here / ~£270, buy it here.

DeWalt has a good reputation for producing professional power tools that share batteries. This polisher meets those expectations. It has a brushless motor that’s smooth-running and quiet. There are eight speed settings from 800rpm to 2,200rpm, which are suited to polishing and paint rectification. And whilst it’s a rotary polisher, not a DA or random orbit, it seems to be effective in use.

If you don’t have much polishing or paint rectification work to do, this might be an expensive investment. But at the same time, what price should you put on your car’s paintwork? Perhaps a pro’ polisher can be justified.

I tested a bundle kit, which includes a couple of batteries and a charger. There’s also a backing pad, but no sponge pads or polishing bonnets.

Operating this polisher is so simple. This is one of the best variable speed triggers I’ve tested. There’s a rotary dial on the top of the body to select one of the eight speed settings. Whichever speed setting is chosen, the motor starts up slowly. And the more you squeeze the trigger, the faster the motor spins up to whatever speed has been set. When in use, it’s easy to move that speed-setting dial to increase or decrease the speed.

Other likeable features include a lock button for the trigger and indicator lights for the state of each battery.

For more information about the DeWalt 180mm 18V brushless rotary polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Draper Storm Force dual action polisher

Award: Approved

Pros: Budget-priced polisher that’s ideal for a novice

Cons: Experienced users might want better

RRP: £95.81, buy it here, not available in the US.

This is the cheapest polisher I’m testing and has the longest power cord at over 16ft (5m). It seems to be good value for money, especially as you get everything you need to start polishing. Using a brushed motor, the speed settings range from 2,000rpm to 6,400rpm – a little fast for some polishing jobs. A rotary dial on the back of the body selects one of the six speed settings. A plastic slider switch on the top of the body switches the motor on and off. I like the smooth operation of the slider, which results in a progressive start-up of the motor. There’s a small amount of variable speed built into this slider.

There is a noticeable amount of vibration through the body at all speeds, which reduces consistency. At 4.8lb (2.2kg), it’s as light as the more expensive polisher I am testing from Milwaukee. However, the results from polishing and rectifying faded paint weren’t so good. We asked a pro’ polisher for a second opinion. He also agreed that it jumps around.

For more information about the Draper Storm Force dual action polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Clarke CP150 Pro’ dual action sander/polisher

Pros: Includes all you need to get started and is stored in a carrycase

Cons: Noisy with lots of vibration. Not much use as a sander

RRP: £83.98, buy now.

Three of the polishers I am testing double up as a sander. Sadly, none of them are very effective at sanding. A dedicated sander is much better.

As a polisher, this entry-level one comes with everything you need to get started. And it’s all stored in a rugged carrycase, although the polisher has to be dismantled to fit it inside.

Assembling the polisher is a little awkward. Fitting the supplied six inch-diameter (150mm) hook and loop backing pad requires a spanner (supplied) squeezed between it and a 14mm nut on the body.

The power cord is a little over 6ft (2m) long, so it’s quite short. There are six speed settings for the brushed motor, selected via a dial numbered 1 to 6. All I know is the maximum speed is 6,000rpm. Whichever setting is chosen, there’s lots of vibration and noise. It’s supposed to be 91.3dB, so ear defenders or plugs will help here.

For more information about the Clarke CP150 Pro’ dual action sander/polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Clarke CP185 sander & polisher

Pros: Comes in a large carrycase with almost everything to get you buffing

Cons: Noisy and lots of vibration. No sponge pad

RRP: £89.99, buy it here.

Another combined sander and polisher that isn’t much use as a sander. As a polisher, it comes with almost everything to get started. A sponge pad would be useful. And it’s all stored in a large plastic carrycase, although the catches that lock the lid look a little flimsy.

Assembling the polisher is quite a battle. The D-shaped handle is a very tight fit. But I like the lock button on the top of the body to hold the motor when fitting the backing pad. The 6ft-long power cord is a little short.

There’s a comprehensive user manual explaining how to use the equipment, spares availability, fault-finding and instructions on replacing the brushes. There’s even a spare set included.

The minimum speed of the brushed motor is 600rpm. There are six speed settings, chosen via a dial on the body. The fastest is 3,000rpm. As a polisher, it’s controllable, but the noise (96dB) is almost deafening. And it’s heavy at 8.2lb (3.7kg).

For more information about the Clarke CP185 sander and polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Sealey 180mm variable speed sander/polisher

Pros: Useful range of speed settings from 600rpm to 3,000rpm

Cons: No sponge pad and no carrycase or bag. Short power lead

RRP: £92.99, buy it here.

The heaviest polisher on test, weighing in at 8.8lb (4kg). It’s too aggressive as a sander, but better as a polisher. It comes with a large plastic D-shaped handle and a couple of hex screws to secure it to the body. The 6ft-long (1.83m) power cord is quite short. There’s a seven inch-diameter (180mm) hook and loop backing pad, which is very straightforward to fit. A lock button on the body stops the spindle moving.

The short instruction leaflet supplied with this equipment states the spindle has a left-hand thread. My test model had a normal right-hand thread.

The speed settings range from 600rpm to 3,000rpm. There’s a dial on the top of the body to alter them. And a lock button so you don’t need to keep the trigger pressed. This polisher has a soft start, so it progressively builds up to its selected speed.

As a polisher, it’s easy to use. At the two slowest speeds, the motor seemed to be occasionally dropping in speed. I used the supplied polishing bonnet, but borrowed a sponge pad from another polisher. At times, the polisher grabs and is heavy to hold. It’s also quite noisy at 93dB, especially at the fastest speed setting.

For more information about the Sealey 180mm variable speed sander/polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Sealey 125mm cordless orbital polisher

Pros: Bundle kit deals are tempting. Battery can be used on other power tools

Cons: Noisy and the slowest speed is still too fast for polishing

RRP: £115.95, buy it here.

This cordless random orbit polisher is part of Sealey’s SV20 series of power tools. So its range of 20V 2-6Ah rechargeable batteries are used with everything from drills to gardening tools. If you don’t already have the batteries, look out for bundle deals.

This polisher appears to be compact. There’s no handle. It has a small diameter pad at five inches (125mm). The controls are a little quirky. There’s a slider to switch it on and off (look for I and O markings for on and off). When running, there’s a small square LCD panel to display the speed setting. The speed of the motor is increased and decreased via a couple of buttons. The lowest setting of the brushless motor at 2,000rpm is quite fast for polishing and none of the speed settings start off gradually. 4,800rpm is the fastest and all of them are noticeably noisy. There’s a distinct high-pitched buzz from the motor.

At 125mm for the pad diameter, it’s useful for tight spots. And there’s 15mm of offset orbit, so it’s sufficiently varied.

For more information about the Sealey 125mm cordless orbital polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Draper 20V random orbit polisher

Pros: Useful range of speed settings from 1,600rpm to 4,710rpm

Cons: Can’t reduce speed when in use, only increase it

RRP: £144.75, buy it here.

This 20V cordless polisher from Draper has a brushless motor. It shares the same battery as a range of power tools including an angle grinder, drill, sander and even a circular saw. If you already have the batteries, then a bare polisher is cheaper than a bundle deal. But you can get a lot for your money in some of those bundle deals.

The supplied hook and loop backing pad can be left attached along with the supplied sponge pad. A hex tool (supplied) is used to secure the backing pad. A single handle is included in the box, which can be attached to either side of the body – a plastic slotted screw needs to be removed.

The six speed settings (1,600-4,710rpm) are displayed in three pairs of red and green numbers on the body. There’s a soft-press button below them, but you can only increase the speed, not reduce it. So you have to work up to the fastest setting, then start again at the slowest.

A large red plastic slider on the top of the polisher’s body switches on the motor. It feels a little flimsy when compared to a trigger. And there’s no progressive start-up.

Weighing in at 6lb (2.7Kg), it’s easy to handle and moves over paintwork controllably.

For more information about the Draper 20V random orbit polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

Milwaukee 180mm 18V brushless cordless polisher

Pros: Lots of accessories and everything you need to get started in one huge carrycase

Cons: Expensive if you don’t intend to do lots of polishing

RRP: $223.78, buy it here / £166.80, buy it here.

The most expensive polisher kit in this group test, unless you already have the batteries for other Milwaukee power tools. Perhaps you get what you pay for. This one has a brushless motor, but with an electronic brake. So when the trigger is released to switch off the motor, it doesn’t slow down under its own speed. Instead, it stops progressively within a second or two and you can feel the motor halting.

There’s room in the carrycase to store the polisher without having to completely dismantle it – just detach the battery and backing pad.

With six speed settings (800-2,000rpm), a rotary dial on the top of the body switches between them. There’s a two-stage trigger to start the motor, so it spins up progressively.

Despite this polisher is 180mm (seven inches), the diameter of the supplied backing pad, two sponges and polishing bonnet is five to just over six inches (125-160mm). It is, however, light, agile and easy to use.

For more information about the Milwaukee 180mm 18V brushless cordless polisher, be sure to check out the full review.

How to buy the best car polisher

Your decision on which polisher to buy will probably start with budget, which helps to narrow down the numbers. But think about how much your paintwork is really worth. You may want to spend a little more on a polisher to help preserve it.

Cordless polishers are on trend, but can you manage with a power cord instead? If so, it means you don’t have to buy batteries and a charger. If cordless is the way to go, then look for bundle deals and shared tools.

The diameter of each polisher is important. Measured in inches or millimeters, it’s useful to know when it comes to buying more sponges and pads. Check out their costs first. And find out how these are fitted to the polisher. Some polishers have a threaded spindle. Others have a threaded insert.

Finally, think about weight, speed settings and noise levels. All of these factors contribute towards whether you look forward to polishing or put it off.

The post Best Machine Polishers To Buy In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

With a pad diameter of 125mm, this is a small polisher. Perhaps it’s useful for working around objects. I’ll only find out for sure when I put it to test on faded paintwork, which is exactly what I’ll be doing in this review as part of a larger polisher group test. Armed with the sponge pad supplied with the polisher, I got to work with a color restorer, followed by some trusty car polish.

RRP: £115.95, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

A kit bundle for this polisher includes a cloth bag, battery, charger, polisher and a 125mm-diameter sponge pad. Everything can be stored inside the bag.

The polisher is quite compact. It has no additional handle, only a grip at the front of the body. There are two plastic M8 screws adjacent to the spindle. I removed these and found I could fit a handle from another polisher I was testing.

The polisher is supplied with a 125mm-diameter hook and loop backing pad already fitted. However, there’s a Hex tool slotted through the body which can be used to remove the backing pad. Unless you wish to remove the backing pad, it can remain fitted. And this means the sponge pad that’s included with the polisher is quick to fit.

Tech spec

This polisher has a brushless motor. With seven speed settings from 2,000rpm to 4,800rpm, they increase in increments of 500rpm. There’s a 15mm offset orbit, so it rotates off-centre. This should help to avoid swirl marks.

The generic 20V lithium-ion battery (it can be used with a number of Sealey tools) has a useful feature. There’s a button on the side of it, which if pressed, displays the state of charge of the battery. This helps to show whether it needs rechanging. And whether you have a 2Ah or 6Ah battery (or any one in between), they all use the same charger.

The controls for operating this polisher are slightly different to the norm – there’s no trigger. Instead, there’s a slider to switch it on and off, denoted by I and O markings. Once switched on, there’s a small square LCD panel that displays the speed setting, which always starts at zero. The speed setting is changed via two buttons labelled with a plus and minus symbol. The LCD panel can only display two digits, so 4,800rpm for example, is displayed as 48.

Confusingly, the packaging for this polisher states a different minimum and maximum value for the motor’s speed at 2,100rpm and 5,000rpm.

Using the Sealey CP20VOP cordless orbital polisher

This polisher is noticeably noisy when used, producing a high-pitched buzz. It doesn’t get any worse at the faster speed settings, but it’s irritating. Ear plugs may be needed. There’s no gradual start-up of the motor when it’s switched on, although it always starts on the slowest speed setting. And with the slowest speed setting being 2,000rpm, it would help to be lower for polishing jobs.

With a small 125mm-diameter pad, it’s more work to polish large areas than a bigger diameter pad. However, it’s useful for working around tighter spots.

Adjusting the speed using the two buttons is simple and it’s also straightforward to switch the polisher on and off.

I found this polisher is easy to control and effective for rectifying faded paintwork. But it’s quite a handful for polishing.

Verdict

As a compact polisher, this one from Sealey has its uses. 125mm means it’s useful for tight spots, but not so good for larger areas. The lack of a handle can make it quite difficult to control at faster speeds. And it needs slower speeds for polishing. But, if you already have some of Sealey’s 20V power tools, it could be an inexpensive addition.

The post Sealey CP20VOP Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

As the owner of a car, there are a core set of tools and tech that everyone should keep stored away in their trunk. One such bit of kit is a portable car battery jump starter. These useful devices have gotten us out of trouble plenty of times here at FC Towers, and we’re sure many of you can relate. After all, it’s all well and good having a set of jump leads to hand, but that requires a second car to get you out of bother…

Instead, standalone car battery jump starters are the perfect solution for when you’re on your own and stuck with a vehicle that refuses to budge. So, if you’re looking to purchase one, here’s our take on the best options currently out there to choose from:

Best Car Battery Jump Starters

NOCO Boost Sport GB20

Award: Best Buy
RRP: $99.95 / £81.77
Performance: 8/14
Is it worth the money? 6/6
Overall score: 14/20

After years of almost having the UK’s smart charger market to themselves, Ctek now has strong competition from the American NOCO brand. And whilst Ctek seems reluctant to launch a jump starter, NOCO has no such qualms. With up to 500 cranking Amps available, rated to start up to 4 liter petrol engines, the GB20 caters for the vast majority of cars and small SUVs. It’s a well-made, solidly performing, unit that’s a doddle to use. Best points are the generously long leads, the bright LED torch, ample safety features, and an intuitive one function per button panel layout.

Ring RPPL300

Award: Recommended
RRP: $122.23 / £99.99
Performance: 8/14
Is it worth the money? 6/6
Overall score: 14/20

Marginally less gutsy than the winning NOCO, Ring’s RPPL300 still packs sufficient punch to wake up petrol and diesel engines up to 3 litres. And, really, there’s little to choose between the two models – especially being so close in price. Whilst this looks more pocket sized, for portable USB charger duties, forget it – at 17 x 9.5cm it’s too bulky. So, really, we’re down to details. The two 2.4 Amp USB outlets are a plus, but all functions being controlled by one button – and tiny LEDs to convey safety warnings – means we prefer the NOCO’s foolproof simplicity.

Interested? Buy it here. Or, check out price comparisons for similar Ring jump-starters below:

Sealey E/Start800

Award: Recommended
RRP: $234.63 / £191.94
Performance: 9/14
Is it worth the money? 5/6
Overall score: 14/20

Heard the one about the jump starter that uses your car’s dead battery to help it get the engine going? Sound bonkers? Maybe so, but that’s exactly what this unit does. Car batteries that drop below 11 volts may not have enough oomph to start an engine, but they still contain a vast amount of energy. E/Start800 feeds off this – or another battery, 12-volt socket, or USB source – for a couple of minutes, and rearranges the energy into a shorter higher voltage starting punch. The beauty of this approach? No – easily forgotten – maintenance charging ever needed.

Halfords Essentials 4 in 1 Jump Starter

Award: Best Budget Buy
RRP: £64.99
Performance: 5/14
Is it worth the money? 6/6
Overall score: 11/20

Easily the best of the DIY priced traditional boosters, marrying many of the Ring RPP148’s innovations with the gutsy performance of Clarke’s venerable but basic Jump Start 900. Better still, Halfords’ keen pricing undercuts both rivals. Going back to those innovations, an isolator allows spark free battery connection, there are two 12-volt outlets and a USB socket – albeit with a low 0.5 amp output, and the LED light is brighter and more durable than Clarke’s museum piece bulb set up. Rated at 2 litres for petrol and diesel engines, shorter than ideal booster leads are our only whinge.

Clarke JSM350

RRP: $129.56 / £105.99
Performance: 8/14
Is it worth the money? 5/6
Overall score: 13/20

Clarke rates the JSM350’s 500 Amps output suitable for starting up to 6 liter petrol engines and 4 liter diesels. And, make no mistake; this little box really packs a punch. But it’s even more impressive as a portable power pack. As well as two 2.1 Amp USB sockets, there are 12- and 19-volt outlets and a vast array of adapters – allowing connection to countless laptops and other accessories. Lightening and 28-pin plugs cater well for Apple users too. But maintenance charging is needed every 3 months, and that’s by mains or 12 volts rather than USB.

Sealey Schumacher SL65S

Price: $131.95 / £107.94
Performance: 7/14
Is it worth the money? 6/6
Overall score: 13/20

Suggested for up to 2 liter petrol engines, and 1.6 liter diesels, this booster is clearly at the lower end of the output scale. But that’s fine for owners of smaller-engined cars. And the reduced output allows a much-reduced size. At 13.5 x 8.5 x 2.5cm, weighing just 320 grams, this slips easily into a pocket – making it a dual use buy: a car starter and a USB power pack. Granted, we’d prefer both USB outlets to be 2.1 Amps, rather than one outputting 1 Amp max. But our biggest gripe is the monthly maintenance charge needed.

Ring RPP148

RRP: £74.95
Performance: 6/14
Is it worth the money? 6/6
Overall score: 12/20

At 24 x 27cm by 14cm deep, Ring’s RPP148 is incredibly compact for a lead/acid unit. But it still illustrates the contrast between traditional and lithium boosters. Both this and Sealey’s SL65s have very similar performance levels – Ring suggests up to 1.8 Litre petrol engines – but you won’t get this in your pocket or even glovebox! Size aside, many of the goodies found on lithium units are also included here. As well as the de rigueur 12-volt cigarette lighter socket, you get two 2.1 Amp USB outlets. Our main moan is that charging is by mains only.

Interested? Buy it here.

Clarke Jump Start 900

RRP: £95.98
Performance: 6/14
Is it worth the money? 5/6
Overall score: 11/20

Clarke’s Jump Start 900 has outlasted countless rivals – including from Clarke themselves – and even a pandemic (hopefully). Will it ever disappear from Clarke’s range, we wonder? Probably not because, ancient and basic as it is, so many of the essentials are spot on. Such as 400 Amps of cranking power, 17Ah of reserve, usably long 1m booster cables, plus mains and 12 volts charging. But niceties are few and far between. The leads, for instance, are permanently on – making connection a little lively. And the built-in light? With its little bulb, it’s quaint rather than illuminating.

Silverline 684786

RRP: $81.58 / £66.74
Performance: 5/14
Is it worth the money? 6/6
Overall score: 11/20

The cheapest lithium pack here by far which means it would be crazy, given how hazardous lithium battery technology can be, to risk buying a barely cheaper unbranded model off the web. Especially as this has a three-year warranty. Despite the price, Silverline suggests the unit is suitable for up to 2.5-litre petrol engines and 2.0-litre diesels. Enthusiastic performance in our tests makes those claims believable. With a modest 6Ah capacity, forget numerous repeat start attempts between charges. But the unit’s two USB outlets, and a slew of different leads, makes it great for tech charging duties.

Draper 70554

RRP: $279.84 / £228.93
Performance: 9/14
Is it worth the money? 1/6
Overall score: 10/20

With lithium models averaging at around 300 grams, this 13.5Kg monster feels huge. But, with up to 3000 starting Amps available, the output’s also huge, meaning there are few engines this won’t wake. Including commercials, thanks to its 24 Volt mode. To make full use of the massive 40Ah internal capacity there’s a USB, two twelve volt, and even two mains sockets – powered by an on-board inverter (300 Watts max). But the safety heavy electronic control system is clunky, and such a big unit should be on the ground during start attempts – something the short booster leads don’t allow.

Clarke Jump Start 4000

RRP: £197.99
Performance: 8/14
Is it worth the money? 1/6
Overall score: 9/20

Another absolute powerhouse. Granted, peak cranking current is 2200 Amps rather than the Draper’s 3000. But, again, there are few cars, SUVs, or 4x4s this won’t rouse. Clarke suggests up to 6 liters petrol, and 4 liters diesel. Used on more mundane machinery, the huge output and 40Ah capacity allows several starting attempts between charges. Although more recently introduced than the evergreen Jump Start 900, the two models are obviously closely related. On the plus side, that means quality 1m long leads. But, other than an isolator – allowing arc free clamp connection – there are few other safety features.

Laser 7405

RRP: $263.68 / £215.71
Performance: 6/14
Is it worth the money? 3/6
Overall score: 9/20

The punchiest lithium jump starter here, which Laser rates – perhaps a little conservatively, we think – suitable for up to 4.5 liter petrol engines and 3.5 liter diesels. But although the unit’s output is impressive, it’s only slightly ahead of the pack. Unlike price, which is considerably north of the winning NOCO and Recommended Ring. That quibble aside, there’s plenty to like. Two 2.1 Amp USB sockets are joined by a third that outputs up to 3 Amps and doubles as the charger input. Laser has excelled with a clever charge/output lead that caters for almost all USB configurations.

Words by James Stanbury, originally featured in Car Mechanics.

• How To Charge a Car Battery
• Best car battery chargers

The post Best Car Battery Jump Starters for 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

RRP: £148.61, buy it here. Not available in the US – consider this instead ($207.60)

What’s in the box?

As a bare polisher you get a backing pad, polishing bonnet and a couple of handles. Two handles is quite unique – most have only one. Both are secured with Hex bolts, supplied with the polisher (and a tool to fit them).

I found the D-shaped handle was a tight fit. It needed a lot of effort to maneuver it into position on the body.

If you buy a bundle deal, then you can expect a soft bag, a couple of batteries and a charger.

Tech spec

With six speed settings ranging from 800rpm to 2,300rpm, these seem suitable for polishing and paint rectification. Their increments are 800rpm, 1,100rpm, 1,400rpm, 1,700rpm, 2,000rpm and 2,300rpm. There’s a rotary dial on the top of the body to change the speed setting.

The polisher’s brushless motor is operated via a trigger. There’s a lock button next to the trigger, which prevents the machine from being accidentally operated. Consequently, there’s no way of locking the trigger when in use.

The supplied backing pad is secured to the threaded spindle of the polisher by winding it on. The spindle can be locked by pressing a button on the top of the body. There are also a couple of flats on the unthreaded section of the spindle. A 17mm open-ended spanner can be used to grip them.

The generic 20V lithium-ion battery (it can be used with a number of Sealey tools) has a useful feature. There’s a button on the side of it, which if pressed, displays the state of charge of the battery. This helps to show whether it needs rechanging. And whether you have a 2Ah or 6Ah battery (or any one in between), they all use the same charger.

Using the Sealey 20V 180mm brushless rotary polisher

Being a brushless motor, it’s smooth to operate. The trigger can be lightly squeezed to start the motor spinning. The more you squeeze it, the faster it goes up to its set speed. It’s very controllable.

The motor on my test model was noisy and high pitched. My ears were ringing after a few minutes of use. A pair of ear plugs helped.

Weighing in at 5.3lb (2.4kg), it feels quite light and seems to be well balanced. The choice of handles is a good idea.

I found this polisher was easy to use. I liked the sensitivity of the trigger, enabling me to adjust the speed of the motor.

Verdict

If you have already invested in Sealey’s range of 20V cordless power tools, then this polisher is definitely worth considering. Otherwise, it may seem like an expensive investment and commitment to a specific brand. But for your money, you get a capable polisher backed with a three-year warranty.

See how it stacks up against its rivals in my machine polisher group test.

The post Sealey CP20VRPX Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

There is however, a price to pay for all of this, but is it worth the money?

RRP: $223.78, buy it here / £166.80, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

You get a lot of accessories if you buy the bundle. These include a plastic D-shaped handle, two batteries, a charger, backing pad, two sponge pads and polishing bonnet. A bare body is also available if you already have the 18V battery and charger.

This polisher is supplied in a sturdy plastic carrycase that’s the size of a small suitcase. It takes up a lot of room, but the polisher can be left part-assembled inside the box, removing the battery and backing pad. So it’s easy to grab and start using almost straight away.

This Milwaukee polisher is advertised as being 180mm in diameter. However, the supplied backing pad, two sponges and polishing bonnet all range between 125mm and 160mm.

The two 18V 5Ah batteries supplied with this kit take a little under one hour to fully recharge. A set of four indicator lights on each battery displays the state of charge. Press a small button on the battery and they light up.

Tech spec

As expected from this sort of price, this polisher has a brushless motor. It also has an electronic brake. So, when the trigger is released to switch off the motor, it doesn’t slow down under its own speed. Instead, it stops progressively within a second or two and you can feel the motor being stopped.

With six speed settings, a rotary dial on the top of the body switches between them. It’s only labelled with values for 800rpm, 1,200rpm, 1,600rpm and 2,000rpm. Yet it’s easy to figure out what the speeds are in between.

A two-stage trigger starts the motor spinning. The first stage sees the motor spin at a speed slower than what has been selected. It’s not a progressive start-up, but an instant surge of half-power. Squeeze the trigger a little more and the motor will instantly get up to its selected speed.

There’s no lock for the trigger so you have to keep it pressed. There is, however, a lock for preventing the trigger from being accidentally pulled.

Using the Milwaukee 180mm 18V brushless cordless polisher

The supplied hook and loop backing pad is wound on to the motor’s spindle. It can be locked by pressing a button on the top of the polisher’s body. Alternatively, gripping the flats on the unthreaded section of the spindle with a 17mm open-ended spanner will lock it.

Despite the diameter of the sponge pads and polishing bonnet were less than 180mm, I found them easy to work with. I could maneuver them across paintwork, whether it was when applying a color restorer or buffing polish. And the polisher only weighs 4.8lb (2.2kg), so it’s light and agile. It’s not too noisy, but my test model did have a high-pitched whine.

I asked my local bodyshop to try this polisher because they already use a similar mains-powered model. They found it similar to theirs and very easy to use.

Verdict

You get what you pay for in this case. Your car’s paintwork is probably expensive to respray, so does it deserve a good-quality polisher? Only you can decide, but if you want a polisher that the professionals would be happy using, this one is worth considering.

If you already have a selection of 18V-powered Milwaukee cordless tools, then a bare polisher body is quite cheap. Otherwise, the bundle I tested is expensive, but you get a lot for your money.

See how it stacks up against its rivals in my machine polisher group test.

The post Milwaukee 180mm 18V Brushless Cordless Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

RRP: £95.81, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

Supplied with a plastic D-shaped handle that’s secured with Hex screws. A fabric, zipped bag, is included. It’s slightly too small if the D-shaped handle remains fitted in the upright position. Slackening its Hex screws to fold the handle flat against the body helps to fit it in the bag.

The polisher is also supplied with a hook and loop backing pad pre-fitted. A spanner is included should you wish to remove it. The backing pad is required to fit the supplied sponge pad. There’s no polishing bonnet.

With a power cable that’s nearly 16.5ft (5m) long, this is the longest lead I have found on a polisher.

Tech spec

The 125mm diameter polisher’s lowest speed setting is 2,000rpm and its fastest is 6,400rpm. For polishing, it could do with being a little slower. There are six speed settings, selected via rotary dial. And a plastic slider to switch it on and off. Weighing in at 4.8lb (2.2kg), it’s quite light.

Using the Draper Storm Force dual action polisher

With six speed settings, the slowest at 2,000rpm is quite fast for polishing. For faded paintwork where a cutting compound or colour restorer is needed, this polisher seems suited. I gave it to a professional bodyshop. Of course, they found it wasn’t as controllable as their more expensive polishers. And they found that whilst it didn’t make a mess of the paintwork (swirl marks), it didn’t do much good.

I don’t do polishing for a job, so I found this polisher easy to operate. It made a difference when I applied a colour restorer to faded paintwork, then polished it afterwards.

I also like the smooth start-up of the motor, which doesn’t give a sudden burst of power. The slider switch isn’t as good as a trigger, but it can be locked, so you don’t need to keep it pressed.

There’s a small amount of variable speed built into the slider switch. Depending on how far it’s pushed forwards; it’s not simply an on/off switch. Even at the fastest setting, the motor spins slowly at first and builds up to its maximum speed.

There is of lot of vibration through the body at all speeds. I tried the fastest speed setting when dealing with faded paintwork. The amount of vibration was manageable and the maneuverability of the polisher was excellent. Remember, it’s quite light.

Verdict

If you’re new to polishing and unsure whether you’ll use such a tool once or every month, try this one. It’s cheap and easy to use. You may find you want more, but you won’t have spent much getting to that point.

See how it stacks up against other products in my machine polisher group test.

The post Draper Storm Force Dual Action Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

If you already have some of Draper’s D20 tools, then you probably won’t need to buy a battery and charger. So the cost of a body only can be quite reasonable. Otherwise, look for bundle deals instead of buying the battery and charger separate.

RRP: £144.75, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

This polisher is supplied in a cardboard box, with no carrycase or bag. We acquired a battery and charger, both of which were supplied in cardboard packaging.

A hook and loop backing pad is already fitted to the polisher. It can be removed with a Hex tool that’s included. However, it can be left fitted because it’s needed for using the supplied 125mm-diameter sponge pad and polishing bonnet. A handle is included, which is attached to either side of the body – a plastic screw needs to be removed.

There’s a button on the side of the battery, which if pressed, shows the status of its charge. This is useful for knowing when it’s ready to recharge. It should take between 30 and 45 minutes, depending on which battery is fitted (they range from 2Ah to 5Ah).

Tech Spec

There are six speed settings for this polisher, starting at 1,600rpm. The fastest speed is 4,710rpm.

The speed settings are displayed in three pairs of red and green numbers along the base of the body with a soft-press button below them. Providing a battery is fitted, pressing the button switches between the different pairs of speed settings, with a light illuminating red or green to signify which setting is chosen. It all makes more sense when you start using the polisher and press this speed setting button to change the rotation speed.

Being a random orbit polisher, the motor doesn’t just rotate, but it also orbits by 15mm. This helps to reduce the risk of swirl marks, creating a greater variance in its pattern of movement.

Using the Draper D20 random orbit polisher

A large red plastic slider switch on the top of the polisher’s body switches on the motor. It doesn’t start spinning gradually, but instantly fires up to whatever speed setting is selected. So it’s wise to start on the slowest setting.

The plastic switch feels a little flimsy and amateurish when compared to a trigger that’s used on most polishers. The switch can be locked by pushing it fully forwards. This means you don’t have to keep it held whilst using the polisher.

It’s a little awkward to change the speed settings. And you can only increase the speed, not decrease it. So you have to get to the maximum speed setting to start again at the slowest.

The weight of this polisher is quite light at almost 6lb (2.7kg) is light. It feels balanced and easy to maneuver over paintwork.

With a sponge pad attached to the hook and loop backing pad, I applied a color restorer to sun-damaged paintwork. It was quickly and easily revived, then polished with the polishing bonnet. This polisher from Draper was easy to operate.

Verdict

This polisher from Draper can be a value for money investment, if you already have the battery and charger. Otherwise, unless you find a bundle deal, it can prove expensive.

The range of speed settings could do with being a little lower for polishing. There’s no progressive start-up for the brushless motor. And no means of reducing the speed without increasing to the maximum setting and starting again.

See how it stacks up against its rivals in my machine polisher group test.

The post Draper D20 Random Orbit Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

RRP: $398.42, buy it here / ~£270, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

As a bundle kit, the DeWalt 18V brushless cordless rotary polisher is supplied in a soft, zipped bag. There’s plenty of room for everything supplied in this kit and more, meaning the handle and backing pad can remain attached.

A side handle is supplied in the kit, which is similar to what’s used on most angle grinders. A D-shaped handle would have been useful. And some polishing accessories, such as a sponge pad and a bonnet. There’s only a hook and loop backing pad.

Our kit includes two 18V lithium-ion 5Ah batteries and one charger, but not if you buy the bare body only.  A flat battery should take 75 minutes to fully recharge. I like the battery status lights on the side of each battery, activated by a small push button.

The supplied backing pad is secured to the threaded spindle of the polisher by winding it on. The spindle can be locked by pressing a button on the top of the body. There are also a couple of flats on the unthreaded section of the spindle. So the spindle can be gripped with a 17mm open-ended spanner instead of pressing the lock button.

Tech Spec

There’s a rotary dial on the top of the body to select one of the eight speed settings. 800rpm is the slowest, followed by 1,000rpm, 1,200rpm, 1,400rpm, 1,600rpm, 1,800rpm, 2,000rpm and 2,200rpm.

There’s also a useful lock button next to the trigger, which prevents the machine from being accidentally operated.

The battery is fitted to the polisher body at 90°, suggesting it reduces the risk of it fouling paintwork.

Using the DeWalt 18V brushless cordless rotary polisher

The trigger of this polisher is very sensitive. The more you squeeze it, the faster the motor spins (up to its selected speed). The initial press of the trigger always results in a smooth and gentle startup of the motor. When in use, it’s easy to adjust the speed dial to increase or decrease the speed.

There’s a useful lock button next to the trigger, which prevents the machine from being accidentally operated. This is especially useful if the polisher is left inside its storage bag with the battery attached. You can’t lock the trigger when using the polisher. So you have to keep your finger held on the trigger to keep it running.

I found the smoothness of operation of this polisher is excellent. From the initial startup to running at maximum speed at 2,200rpm, it’s controllable. It’s also quiet and very light, weighing in at a few ounces over 4lb (1.9kg).

With a sponge pad attached to the hook and loop backing pad, I applied a color restorer to sun-damaged paintwork. It was quickly and easily revived, then thoroughly polished.

DeWalt 18V brushless cordless rotary polisher verdict

This polisher from DeWalt has a mouth-watering specification. It feels very easy to use because it’s light, well-balanced, smooth and quiet. It’s not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

See how it stacks up against its rivals in my machine polisher group test.

The post DeWalt 18V Brushless Rotary Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

With my 1976 Volkswagen Bay Window campervan in the garage, its red paintwork had lost its shine in places. Could this polisher revive it?

RRP: £92.99, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

Sealey’s variable speed sander & polisher doesn’t have a carrycase or bag, although several are available from them. This mains-powered machine includes a large plastic D-handle and a couple of hex screws to secure it to the body. I initially found it awkward to fit. Once in position, there’s a tool to fit the two hex screws. And a hole in the side of the handle makes it easier to access one of them.

The 6ft-long (1.83m) power lead is very short. An extension lead will probably be needed. It may have to be carefully positioned to avoid fouling the bodywork of a vehicle when polishing it.

Fitting the supplied hook and loop backing pad is very straightforward. There’s a lock button on the body that stops the spindle moving. The short instruction leaflet supplied with this sander and polisher states the spindle has a left-hand thread. Our test model had a normal right-hand thread.

Tech Spec

The speed settings range from 600rpm to 3,000rpm. There’s a dial on the top of the body that is clearly labelled. It starts at 600rpm, followed by 1,000rpm, 1,400rpm, 1,800rpm, 2,200rpm, 2,600rpm and finally 3,000rpm. When running at a selected speed, there’s a mechanical push button to lock the trigger on. This lets you release the trigger and keep the polisher working. Another press of the trigger releases this lock and switches the polisher off.

This polisher also boasts a soft start, so it progressively builds up to its selected speed.

Using the Sealey MS925PS

As a sander, this is too aggressive and often difficult to control. A dedicated sander is a better option.

As a polisher, it’s easier to work with, especially at slower speeds for waxing and polishing. The slow speeds are useful. However, at the two slowest speeds, the motor occasionally dropped its speed and seemed to momentarily cut out. This was not noticeable at the faster speed settings.

I found it useful to adjust the speed setting whilst using the polisher, increasing and decreasing the speed. I also liked the variable speed trigger – the more you squeeze it the faster the motor spins.

There’s only a polishing bonnet included, so I borrowed a sponge pad to rectify some faded paintwork. Using a color restorer fluid at 2,200-3,000rpm, the polisher occasionally grabbed. It was, on the whole, controllable and effective, but it’s quite heavy at 8.8lb (4kg). And it’s noisy at 93dB when used on the fastest setting, so ear plugs or defenders are recommended.

With the D-handle attached, it’s handy to rest the polisher on its back without fouling the power lead.

Verdict

For a heavy and noisy sander and polisher, this mains-powered machine is competitively priced. So it may appeal to novices or anyone wanting something that will be occasionally used. For regular use or anyone who is experienced with polishing, look for something lighter, quieter and probably more expensive.

See how it stacks up against its rivals in my machine polisher group test.

The post Sealey MS925PS Sander/Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

I had my 1976 Volkswagen Bay Window campervan ready to test this polisher on. Its red paintwork had lost its shine in places, so would this polisher revive it?

RRP: £89.99, buy it here.

What’s in the box?

The Clarke CP185 sander & polisher is supplied in a large plastic carrycase. It locks shut with a couple of flimsy-looking plastic catches, that don’t look particularly substantial. I’ve seen these before and they generally don’t last long before one or both of them break off. In fact, I have the same ones on the box of a Clarke trolley jack. I confess I snapped them off when I accidentally closed the lid on them and wasn’t looking.

There’s a separate plastic D-handle to secure to the body of the sander & polisher with two hex screws. And a hex tool is supplied to fit those screws. I found it quite a struggle to maneuver the handle into position to line up the mounting holes. And if you intend to store the equipment in its case, the handle will need to be removed.

A comprehensive user manual outlines how to use the equipment. It also lists the spares available for it with an exploded diagram of the body. There’s even a fault-finding table and instructions on replacing the brushes (a spare set is included).

The power lead is very short at 6ft or 1.83m long. So an extension lead is usually required when working around a vehicle. Plus, the lead can easily drag over the paintwork because it’s so short.

Tech spec

This sander & polisher has six speed settings ranging from 600rpm to 3,000rpm. Each one is selected via a dial on the top of the body, which is numbered from 1 to 6.

The diameter of the polishing bonnet is 180mm, which is a standard size. Consequently, there are lots of different types of pads that can be fitted. It’s a shame a sponge pad isn’t included, especially considering this appeals to beginners who often need everything.

I noticed that Machine Mart doesn’t sell any individual 180mm-diameter sponge pads, only 150mm. They do sell a comprehensive kit of sanding discs with 180mm polishing pads and bonnets for £20.39. So you may wish to shop around for more sponge pads, or use the smaller 150mm-diameter ones from Machine Mart.

The supplied backing pad is threaded on to the spindle that protrudes from the body of the polisher & sander. There’s a lock button on the top of the body should the spindle rotate when fitting the backing pad.

Using the Clarke CP185 Sander & Polisher

With speeds ranging from 600rpm to 3,000rpm, this machine is seemingly well-suited for polishing. And it’s easy to adjust the dial for those speeds when using the machine. Sadly, it’s very noisy, so you will need ear plugs or defenders. I managed to polish several areas of paintwork using the supplied polishing bonnet. I was careful with how much polish was applied. Too much may make the bonnet wet, which could create swirl marks.

The weight of the polisher is noticeably heavy at 8.2lb (3.7kg). It’s not so bad on flat horizontal surfaces because you can support and guide the polisher. On vertical surfaces it’s quite a handful to hold.

As a sander, this machine is far too aggressive. I wanted to key the gloss paint on the wooden front door of my house. Using a 120-grit sanding paper, it swiftly took the finish back to bare wood.

As a polisher, I like the progressive start-up of the motor that’s gentle to begin with. Under operation, the trigger can be locked on, so you don’t have to keep it pressed when polishing.

Verdict

The Clarke CP185 sander & polisher is competitively priced. It’s let down by flimsy catches on its plastic carrycase, the lack of a sponge pad, excessive noise and weight. If you want to strip paint, it’s perhaps a good sander. As a polisher or for rectifying paint damage, it’s heavy and you’ll need to buy a sponge pad.

The post Clarke CP185 Sander & Polisher Review appeared first on Fast Car.

Clarke CP150 Pro dual action sander/polisher RRP: £83.98, buy now.

What’s in the box?

The Clarke CP150 Pro dual action sander and polisher is supplied in a compact, sturdy-looking plastic carrycase. It locks shut with good-quality metal clasps. Inside, there’s the polisher/sander body, a hook and loop backing pad, sponge pad and polishing bonnet. There’s also a spare set of motor brushes, a spanner and user manual.

There’s a large plastic D-handle to fit on to the body with a couple of hex screws. It’s a sturdy handle that can be easily fitted in several different positions. Unfortunately, the handle has to be removed to fit the polisher back into the carrycase. And the backing pad also needs to be removed. The handle is a little tough to maneuver into position.

The hook and loop backing pad requires a spanner (supplied in the kit) to fit it. It has to be squeezed between it and the 14mm nut on the body. A stud on the backing pad threads into it. If the nut isn’t gripped, it will rotate and the backing pad cannot be fitted. The spanner is quite awkward to position.

Clarke CP150 Polisher and Sander tech spec

This sander/polisher has six speed settings, which are selected via a dial on the top of the body. The dial displays numbers 1 to 6, with 6 being the fastest at 6,000rpm. Unfortunately, there’s no information on the speed of the other settings. 6,000rpm, for example, is too fast for polishing, but we can only assume the slowest setting (number 1), is perhaps around 2,000rpm.

The diameter of the backing pad is 150mm, which means there are plenty of aftermarket sponges and polishing bonnets that can be fitted to this machine. The ones included in the kit seem to be good enough to get you started.

The mains power lead attached to this polisher is a little over 6ft (2m) long. So it’s quite short and will probably need an extension cable to work around a vehicle. And being short, it does increase the risk of it fouling the bodywork.

The total weight of the sander/polisher with a backing pad is 5.7lb (2.6kg), which is not too heavy. It feels well-balanced when holding it vertically and horizontally. There’s a noise rating label on the body, which states 91.3dB.

Using the Clarke CP150 Pro dual action polisher and sander

This machine doubles up as a sander and polisher. When sanding, we noticed a considerable amount of vibration is produced. It’s also very noisy, so should be used wearing ear plugs or defenders. When compared to a dedicated sander, this isn’t as good, being slightly more aggressive and noisier.

As a polisher, it’s more capable, but still very noisy and with lots of vibration transmitted through to my hands. It’s easy to maneuver because it’s quite light, but its dual action can result in it wandering off. The dial for adjusting the speed of the motor is easy to move when using the polisher. I also like the progressive start-up of the motor that’s gentle to begin with. And the trigger can be locked on, so you don’t have to keep it pressed when polishing.

The 150mm-diameter sponge pad and polishing bonnet are a good fit and remain in position during use. I used a color restorer fluid to remove sunlight damage on red faded paintwork. I also polished my Clarke steel workbench that’s painted glossy red. It was quite a workout thanks to the vibration (and I wore ear plugs), but the polisher did the job.

Clarke CP150 Pro dual action sander/polisher verdict

As an entry-level polisher, the Clarke CP150 Pro dual action sander/polisher is a budget-priced introduction for a beginner. It can rectify paint problems and buff polish and wax. As a sander, I’d recommend buying a dedicated machine instead. And I’d also recommend investing in ear plugs and a pair of thick work gloves.

See how it stacks up against its rivals in my machine polisher group test.

The post Clarke CP150 Pro Dual Action Polisher & Sander appeared first on Fast Car.

Understanding the warning signs that your clutch might be on the way out should form part of your overall car maintenance. But, high revs and not being able to select a gear aren’t the only symptoms you should be wary of. In this guide we’ll take a look at what a clutch is and each of the issues it may develop, as well as how to identify them.

What is a car clutch?

A clutch in a car relates to the components that help to transfer the power from the engine to the gearbox and, in turn, to the road wheels to move them. These components include a friction plate, which enables the rotation of the engine’s flywheel to be transferred to the gearbox. There’s also a clutch cover which helps to guide that friction plate. A release bearing helps the connection to the gearbox. And in some cases, a hydraulic slave cylinder to help with operating the clutch pedal.

All of the components can have their issues, which results in a range of common car clutch problems. Read on to discover the best ways to fix them.

Be sure to check out our guide to clutches to find out when and why you would upgrade them when tuning.

I can’t get my car in gear

If after pressing the clutch pedal down, you can’t select a gear, there may be a problem with the clutch cable or the clutch fluid.

If you can’t select first gear, for instance, try pumping the clutch pedal a few times, then try again. And if this is more successful, check whether your car has a hydraulic clutch. If it does, check the fluid level for the clutch. There may be a separate reservoir inside the engine bay, or it may share the fluid with the brake reservoir. In most cases, top up with DOT 4, but check your workshop manual.

If pumping the clutch helped, but the fluid level is okay, there may be a problem with the clutch slave cylinder. The seals inside it can fail or air can get trapped in the system. Bleeding the clutch fluid may help. And overhauling or replacing the slave cylinder can also fix this problem.

Problems with the gear change cables or rods can cause issues with gear selection, sometimes fixed by fitting new ones or replacing any bushes. Other issues, such as a damaged clutch fork, can cause gear selection problems.

A worn clutch cover can make it difficult to select a gear. Most clutch covers have a sprung center section, which helps to control the friction plate. If this sprung section has weakened, gear selection can be difficult.

Crunchy reverse

If you are driving along and decide to stop and select reverse, you may find it crunches. You know what they say? If you can’t find it, grind it, but to avoid any damage, there’s a technique to help preserve your gears. Before selecting reverse, select second gear. This will help to slow down the layshaft inside the gearbox, making it less likely to crunch into reverse.

Other crunches in the gearbox

If you find the gearbox crunches when changing down gears, often into second, then this is generally no fault of the clutch. Instead, there may be worn synchromesh inside the gearbox. Sadly, if this is the case, the gearbox will need to be dismantled to fix this problem.

Slipping car clutch

A slipping clutch arises when the friction plate has become worn and it cannot provide sufficient grip onto the flywheel. Consequently, the power of the engine isn’t efficiently transferred to the gearbox. What usually happens is the engine sounds as though it is over-revving, and acceleration is slower than it should be. The friction plate will continue to wear, so it’s important to replace it. If you are inspecting a friction plate to see if it is worn, look for the rivets around the face of it. These should be inset, but if they are level with the surface of the friction plate, then it’s worn.

Noisy release bearing

With the engine running, press the clutch pedal down, then release it. Do this several times and listen for a noise that appears when the pedal is off and disappears when it’s down. This may be a noisy release bearing, which sits over the input shaft of the gearbox, close to where the clutch assembly is fitted. It can become dry, worn and consequently noisy. Replacing it is the best solution, but this involves separating the gearbox from the engine to access it.

Rattly dual mass flywheel

A number of diesel engines have a dual mass flywheel, which can rattle when it fails. The noise usually stops upon pressing down the clutch pedal. Replacing the clutch assembly is often quite expensive. Some people convert to a solid flywheel, but the dual mass flywheel helps to smooth out power delivery.

Removing a gearbox

The gearbox has to be removed or at least separated from the engine to change the clutch components. Draining the gearbox oil is often essential to avoid washing yourself in the stuff.

On most front-wheel-drive vehicles, the gearbox is fitted on the left or right side of the engine bay. There’s usually space to remove it after disconnecting the driveshafts. Gearbox mounts, linkage and mounting bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine (bellhousing bolts) will need undoing. Plus, the clutch will need to be detached.

On rear-wheel-drive vehicles, it may be possible to extract the gearbox from underneath. The propshaft will need to be detached, along with any mounts and bellhousing bolts. Plus, the clutch needs detaching, there may be a speedo drive cable and wires for the reverse sensor.

Changing a car clutch after identifying problems

Most car clutch assemblies are attached to the engine’s flywheel with half a dozen small bolts. The clutch cover and friction plate will usually be fitted here. After removing them, the replacement clutch will need to be fitted with an alignment tool. This ensures the center of the friction plate is correctly positioned for the input shaft of the gearbox. You’ll only find out if it’s correctly aligned when trying to refit the gearbox.

Fitting a new release bearing and possibly a slave cylinder are all completed from the gearbox. Inside the bellhousing area is where the release bearing is usually found, secured with a small bolt. And in some cases, the slave cylinder is attached to the release bearing and fitted onto the gearbox.

Our advice

Diagnosing car clutch problems isn’t always so straightforward. In some cases, it’s more economical to replace an entire clutch assembly and have peace of mind. In all cases, don’t ignore clutch problems. They won’t fix themselves.

The post Car Clutch Problems And Warning Signs appeared first on Fast Car.

A range of third-party apps on Android and iOS smartphones and Windows-operated PCs and laptops can be used with the vLinker MC+. Apps including Auto Doctor, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner and Torque are generic. However, BimmerCode, BimmerLink, FORScan, JScan and Dr Prius are specific to certain makes and models, and also work.

How I tested the vLinker MC+ scanner

I had a 2005 Audi A3 (diesel engine) to test out the vLinker MC+. I decided to use the Car Scanner app to identify a specific issue with the car’s parking sensors that I knew existed. The objective here was to find out how easy the OBD2 scanner could identify the problem, and whether it would could find any other issues on board. I also took note of how easy the setup was. So, could the vLinker MC+ and Car Scanner app find the parking sensor issue?

RRP: $59.99 Buy / £59.95 Buy.

Using the vLinker MC+ OBD2 Scanner

What’s in the box?

The vLinker MC+ comes in a small box that’s nearly five inches long, less than three inches wide and just over an inch deep. The device is small. It’s the width of the OBDII port and a couple of inches deep. So it can be awkward to unplug from the OBDII port, but has ribbed sides to help grip it.

An informative quick start guide is included, which has been poorly translated into English, but easy enough to understand. Just refrain from wincing at the poor grammar.

Downloading the app

The quick start guide lists several recommended apps (presumably for Android, iOS and Windows), but doesn’t explain where to find them. The Google Play Store is the place to look for an Android phone. The App Store is where you’ll find the right one for an iPhone. And a search online through Google, for instance, will help to find the right software to download on to a Windows-based PC or laptop. I installed Car Scanner on to an Android phone. It took a few minutes to complete.

Connecting app and scanner

There’s a connect button on the face of the vLinker MC+ to help with connecting the app and device. This can be pressed once the device has been inserted into the car’s OBDII port, the ignition is switched on and the app is running. The two were quickly paired when I tested this, and the app correctly identified my Audi A3.

Using the app

The Car Scanner app provided some impressive diagnostics when tested with the vLinker MC+ on my Audi A3. It managed to correctly diagnose the parking sensor problem and display a fault code with a description. A full diagnostic scan initially listed 198 different systems, but these were generic so most didn’t apply. It took a few minutes to complete but was much quicker when I conducted a second scan. Car Scanner remembered which systems to check.

The features available in the free Car Scanner app help to make the vLinker MC+ look impressive. A dashboard display shows speed, engine rpm and coolant temperature. A Performance function can time a standing start to 20, 40, 60, 80 and 100mph. The app can even record fuel consumption.

vLinker MC+ OBD2 scanner verdict

Providing you find the right app to suit your needs, the vLinker MC+ is an impressive Bluetooth scanner. It can communicate with a wide range of cars and ECUs and seems capable of retrieving some very useful information. Some apps may require purchases to activate particular features or to be able to use on multiple cars.

The vLinker MC+ is straightforward to use. The front face of the device has a useful connect button and a display to tell you what’s happening. And grammatical errors aside, the quick start guide is similarly straightforward.

To see how it faired against other Bluetooth scanners, be sure to check out our guide to the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners.

The post vLinker MC+ OBD2 Scanner Review appeared first on Fast Car.

Many of us remember our first toolkit with fond memories and recall the times we struggled and made-do with what we had, but still managed to replace a spark plug or fit a new pair of brake rotors. Years later, you often wonder how you managed, especially if you now have a huge range of tools and wrench sets at your fingertips. It was these issues that spurred us to think about the budding mechanics and modifiers of today, and what tools they would buy to get started.

So, if you’re looking to take your first steps into a more hands-on form of car ownership and maintenance, we’ve picked several toolkits for you to choose from to get started. The following toolkits were put through their paces by our tools expert Rob Hawkins, who has decades of experience working on cars both classic and modern.

At a glance:

• Best Buy: Sealey Premier 136-Piece Toolkit, RRP: $439.99 / £359.94 – buy it now!
• Best Budget Buy: Blackline 99-Piece Tool Set, RRP: $82.00 / £67.08 – buy it now!
• Apprentice’s Choice: Siegen 90-piece tool chest, RRP: $439.99 / £359.94 – buy it now!
• Mechanic’s Choice: Teng Tools 48-piece Tool Kit, RRP: $649.68 / £531.48 – buy it now!
• Teenager’s Choice: Draper workshop toolkit, RRP: $508.92 / £416.33 – buy it now!
• Recommended: Clarke PRO394 Professional 90-Piece Toolkit, RRP: £131.98 – buy it now! 

Best Mechanic Tool Set For Beginners

Sealey Premier 136-Piece Toolkit

Award: Best Buy
RRP: $439.99 / £359.94 – buy it now!
Score: 9/10

Full-time mechanic Mike Smith at MJ Motors chose this toolkit as his favorite. It’s easy to see why. The sturdy storage case securely holds all 136 tools inside with labelled locations. The sockets range from 4mm-32mm, with ¼- and ½-inch drive ratchets, and there’s a comprehensive range of E-Torx sockets – but only one 16mm spark plug socket, whereas most other kits also include a 21mm socket.

Disappointingly, the metric sockets up to 14mm are ¼-inch drive, which is a little inadequate for fittings requiring a 12-14mm socket that maybe need a stronger ½-inch drive ratchet. In fact, our ¼-inch drive ratchet broke. Luckily, Sealey offers a lifetime replacement warranty on this and the other toolkit we tested from them. Otherwise, there’s a good range of screwdrivers and bits, pliers, Allen keys, spanners and extension bars. There’s also a folding knife, something that our apprentice pointed out is essential in every toolkit.

We liked the storage box, which is better than them being stored loosely or in an open holder. However, the best aspect of this toolkit has got to be the 3/8 -inch bits, which fit inside a ½-inch adaptor. There are Torx bits up to T55, and multi-splined and Allen keys up to 12mm. All this makes for a sound investment with a good range of tools

Clarke PRO394 Professional 90-Piece Toolkit

Award: Recommended
Price: £131.98 from MachineMart – buy it now!
Score: 8/10

A stunning-looking cantilever toolbox that opens to reveal a neatly stored and usefully labelled assortment of tools. With metric sizes only, there are ½- and ¼-inch drive ratchets and an assortment of sockets from 4mm-24mm, including 16mm and 21mm spark plug sockets. The Allen keys range from 1.5mm-10mm and include a 7mm, which can be useful for undoing brake caliper slider bolts. The spanners are in sizes from 6mm-17mm. There’s a selection of reasonable quality screwdrivers, plus an assortment of bits and a separate universal screwdriver handle. Plus a wide range of pliers, including vice grips and water pump pliers. Compared with the other Clarke toolkit on test, the extra cash for this kit is well worth it. Also, this one comes with a lifetime warranty, whereas the other one (scroll down to find it) is just a year.

This toolkit looks impressive and the tools are easy to find and put away. While the carry-case types are arguably even easier to transport, they don’t keep all the tools as secure. It was a close call between this toolkit and Sealey’s Premier, so it will come down to personal choice.

Blackline 99-Piece Tool Set

Award: Best Budget Buy
RRP: $82.00 / £67.08 – buy it now!
Score: 8/10

Siegen 90-piece tool chest

Award: Apprentice’s Choice
RRP: $439.99 / £359.94 – buy it now!
Score: 7/10

This is one of the more expensive multi-drawer tool chests on test, but the higher price is reflected in the quality of the tools – and there are no gimmicks to make up the number of pieces, such as drawing pins, picture hooks or screws. Instead, you get the basics of what an entry level mechanic needs: metric sockets from 4mm-32mm, 16mm and 21mm spark plug sockets, ¼- and ½-inch ratchet drives, spanners from 6mm-22mm, a selection of Allen keys (but no 7mm), screwdrivers, pliers and lots of bits (Allen keys, Torx up to T30 and screwdriver bits). Plus, all of the tools come with a lifetime warranty.

Stored in a two-drawer tool chest with a lockable lid, there’s a place for everything with clear labelling to help locate the right tool. We also liked how many of the tools could be used together – the screwdriver-style handle for using the bits can be equipped with a ¼-inch socket on one end and a ¼-inch drive ratchet at the other, helping to create more leverage when undoing stubborn fastenings.

This toolkit is certainly a good investment and starting point for a would-be mechanic. There are less tools than some of the cheaper kits we tested but, in this case, less appears to be more when it comes to the quality. Our apprentice chose this starter kit as his favorite

Teng Tools 48-piece Tool Kit

Award: Mechanic’s Choice
RRP: $649.68 / £531.48 – buy it now!
Score: 6/10

Favored by full-time mechanic Dan Smith, this compact but comprehensive toolkit contains a mixture of 3/8-inch metric and AF sockets from 8mm-18mm, so it offers one of the most limited ranges when compared with many of the kits on test. Also included is a couple of spark plug sockets, a range of spanners (8-19mm with some AF sizes), with several pliers and screwdrivers. There are no Allen keys or Torx bits. The sturdy carry-case isn’t lockable, but it has two substantial clips to keep it closed. And inside, there’s a separate hinged panel to prevent the screwdrivers and spanners from falling out, although they also click into the plastic-molded and labelled lining.

At this price point, this is the most expensive toolkit on test and many of the other kits offer more for your money, but Teng Tools has a reputation for top-quality products. If all you need is a socket set with spanners, pliers and screwdrivers, then this is a good investment that seems built to last, and includes a warranty that offers to repair or replace the tools should they break during normal usage due to manufacturing or material faults.

Draper workshop toolkit

Award: Teenager’s Choice
RRP: $508.92 / £416.33 – buy it now!
Score: 6/10

One of the most comprehensive toolkits, but unlike all the competitors where the tools are neatly stored and labelled inside a toolbox, Draper seem to have collected an assortment of their tools together and put them inside a suitable six-drawer tool chest. Ranging from pliers, screwdrivers, spanners and Allen keys (including a useful 7mm for brake caliper slider bolts) to pry bars, a rubber mallet and cutting tools (knife, hacksaws, side cutters and tin snips). And there’s room inside to add more tools, making this the only toolkit that can be expanded.

A separate ½-inch socket set is included. It includes the widest range of spark plug sockets: 14mm, 16mm and 21mm. Some of our testers wondered why the socket set was separate to the toolbox but, on reflection, a socket set is often all you need for a job, which is a lot easier to carry around than an entire toolbox. Dan Smith’s son, Jacob, and his cousin, William, both chose this toolbox as their favorite. We can see why, because there’s a good range of useful tools. Plus, they all come with a lifetime warranty, except for the hacksaw and knife blades.

At the current asking price, it’s a lot cheaper than buying the included tools individually, and there’s room to grow your collection without having to buy more toolboxes.

Clarke 235-piece mechanic’s toolkit

RRP: $176.00 / £143.98 – buy it now!
Score: 5/10

A fully-loaded two-drawer lockable tool chest. There’s an extensive range of metric and AF-sized ¼- and 3/8-inch drive sockets, along with spanners, Allen keys and a 21mm spark plug socket, but no 16mm. It’s good to see that both AF and metric have been catered for, which is useful for anyone working on older vehicles, but it does feel like overkill in such a compact tool chest. Extending the range of Allen key bits beyond 6mm may have been more beneficial, and putting labels on the plastic storage trays would help with selecting individual tools.

The range of screwdrivers feels cheap and cheerful, so we tested the screwdriver bits with the screwdriver attachment to undo a stubborn screw holding the corner of a front bumper. The end of the bit couldn’t withstand the pressure and broke off. At this price, you could argue that you can’t expect everything in a starter toolkit. In reality, you do get just about everything, but the quality isn’t the best and our testers felt it performed poorly. Less is maybe more but, for an entry-level kit, this one looks good and will cover most jobs.

The post Best Mechanic Tool Set for Beginners appeared first on Fast Car.

There’s a skill to designing and manufacturing an exhaust system. It all starts with looking at the vehicle it’s going to be fitted to. Space is the biggest limitation and often the deciding factor for the configuration of the exhaust system. So a four-branch manifold, for example, may not have the space in the engine bay to fit it. There’s often more room underneath the vehicle to be creative with the rest of the system. However, mufflers are often limited to where there’s room to tuck them out of the way. Ripping them off when travelling over a speed hump is the last thing you need.

There’s also a whole host of other factors you need to consider. Are you changing the exhaust for more power? Just to elevate the sound? To meet track day regulations? Maybe you want a design that no one else has or you want to join the Bosozuko crew. Whatever your goal is needs to be considered when building the exhaust. If you want the most amount of noise, you can forget silencers. For the vast majority of us who want a blend of noise and performance, you may start thinking about a sports catalytic convertor, or running one silencer rather than two. Before you consider a custom system, explore why you’re upgrading your exhaust before you make decisions.

Make a custom exhaust yourself

Can you really make your own exhaust system? Bolting together alternative pipes, mufflers and catalytic converters sounds tempting. Parts such as a sports cat, a packable muffler and a large-bore pipe could make a difference. However, that’s providing everything will fit together and can be secured with suitable hangers and mounts.

Inevitably, there will need to be some cutting, welding and modifying to make a custom exhaust system fit. Unless you are skilled at these jobs, it’s not something for the average DIYer.

Professional welders

Welding tubes together, along with fitting flanges and mounts, is only half the battle towards making an exhaust system. The angle and position of these parts when fitted needs to be considered. This can present numerous headaches, resulting in an exhaust system that bangs against the center tunnel or fouls the bulkhead. It perhaps highlights how a made-to-measure performance exhaust system carries a high price tag. Someone has spent days or weeks designing, making and testing these parts to ensure they fit.

Welding tubing together generates a couple of potential problems. Firstly, the welds need to be airtight to ensure exhaust gases don’t escape. And secondly, the heat from welding may distort the metal tubing. So it will need to be checked and may have to be bent to shape afterwards.

Car exhaust bending

A tube bender is often used to shape the pipework for an exhaust system. Otherwise, the tubes need to be cut and welded together to create the correct shape. From a DIY perspective, it is feasible to bend long sections of tubing. Bending them over large round objects, such as a wheel and tire, reduces the risk of kinking the pipework.

For shorter sections of tubing, this isn’t so easy. Applying heat can help, but increases the risk of burning yourself and anything that comes into contact with the pipework.

Car exhaust wrapping

Adding exhaust wrap tape around a manifold helps to keep heat out of the engine bay. This method of heat protection can help to reduce under-hood temperatures. It may be useful if you have an open-cone air filter inside the engine bay. Reducing the temperature of the air drawn into the engine means it has a greater density of oxygen. The more oxygen, the better the combustion for the engine.

Exhaust wrap tape can sometimes be fitted in situ around a manifold. However, it’s usually easier to remove the exhaust manifold to be able to wrap it. The ends of the tape are usually secured with heatproof clips.

Off-the-shelf exhaust parts

Universal exhaust components such as a sports catalytic converter or a custom muffler can sometimes be fitted. This is often a cheaper route to customizing an exhaust system. However, we can’t guarantee they are the right size and shape. So, if you are tempted to buy a sports cat or custom muffler, check the bore size at each end. If one or both ends are slotted, they will have to fit over whatever you intend to connect to them. So check the internal diameter. If they are not slotted, they will fit inside a connecting pipe, so check the external diameter.

On the job mods

Building a custom exhaust system in situ is one of the best means of ensuring everything can be fitted. However, it can require a high level of skill and tools. You’ll need a lift or inspection pit to work underneath the vehicle. If you intend to weld parts together in situ, make sure the fuel tank is empty and the battery disconnected.

Made to measure custom exhaust

Buying a custom exhaust system designed for your car is often the most expensive option. It’s less time-consuming because the design work has been done. So, it should fit, although exhaust systems are rarely that easy to assemble. You may want to ask your local workshop to help, especially if you don’t have a lift and they do.

Fitting custom exhaust tips

Whether you are fitting a sports cat or an entire custom system, there are a few tools to help. A rubber, wooden or plastic mallet helps to push pipes and components together. Spray silicone grease around joins to reduce friction when fitting parts together. Exhaust paste or a silicone-based sealant reduces the risk of air leaks. Apply this to joins.

Unless the original rubber exhaust hangers are reused or new ones supplied, have a variety of them to hand. This will help to ensure the exhaust system is securely fitted underneath the vehicle. You may wish to add mounting brackets and bobbins or fit different clamps. Remember the exhaust system needs to be move, so spring-loaded and rubber mounts are usually required.

Is a custom exhaust system better than stock?

If you are experienced enough to make your own custom exhaust system, you may discover all your efforts reduce performance. A more expensive made-to-measure system may have power charts to show the gains you should expect.

Remember that a stock exhaust system is designed to comply with noise and emissions regulations. But at the same time, a car manufacturer usually wants to optimize performance. So a custom system has its limitations, especially if you need to adhere to noise and emissions laws.

Relevant content: 

• Best custom exhaust designs
• How to fit a car exhaust

The post Custom Exhaust Guide: Can You Make Your Own Car Exhaust? appeared first on Fast Car.

Bleeding air out of an engine’s cooling system can be a frustrating job. So we’ve outlined some of the typical problems that can arise and how to resolve them. We’ve also examined a range of methods for bleeding the cooling system. They vary depending on the layout of the engine and car radiator and whether there are any bleed points.

Why are you bleeding your car radiator?

Although perhaps obvious, it’s important to consider why you need to bleed a car engine’s coolant system. For instance, you may need to refresh the coolant as part of a service. Or a large component, such as the radiator or water pump may have been replaced, resulting in coolant loss.

Fixing a problem or leak

If you need to frequently top up the engine coolant, find the cause of this issue. Bleeding the coolant may help to remove air locks, but it won’t fix a leak or a blown head gasket. Depending on the color of the coolant, it may be easy to spot its residue and find a leak. If the coolant is pink for example, then look for pink residue around the ends of the coolant hoses.

How much antifreeze should be used in an engine?

It’s essential to use the correct type of antifreeze in an engine and to work out its correct dilution with water. Check your workshop manual to find the recommended type of antifreeze. Older engines often need the blue-colored coolant that needs refreshing every two years – although the color does not mean it’s this type of coolant. Modern engines can use a longer-lasting coolant that needs changing after six or more years.

As for its dilution with water, this depends on what is recommended for your engine and the climate. If the winters are cold and the summers hot, you’ll need a concentration of antifreeze to cope with this. Diluting with water is important – using no water doesn’t mean the antifreeze will work better in extreme temperatures.

Where do I refill the engine coolant on a car?

The most obvious points for refilling the engine coolant are the expansion or header tank and direct into the radiator. However, it may help to detach an upper coolant hose and use a funnel to pour mixed coolant into it. This can force air out of the coolant system instead of waiting for it to rise out.

Car radiator bleed screws

On some engines, a bleed screw is fitted at a high point in the coolant system to help air to escape. By releasing the bleed screw, the coolant system can be refilled until liquid leaks out of it. In some cases, the engine can be run to allow more air to escape. Eventually, only coolant will leak out, meaning the bleed screw should be closed (tightened).

Radiator bleeding a mid-engine car

Bleeding the coolant system for a car where the engine and radiator are at opposite ends can be difficult. Usually, the engine is mid-mounted, such as in a Toyota MR2, or rear-mounted, such as a Porsche 911. And the radiator is fitted at the very front to benefit from airflow to help with cooling.

In such cases, look for a bleed screw or bleed outlet. This may be under the front compartment or in the engine bay. Additional hoses may need to be attached to these bleed points to help raise them even further. Jacking the front or rear of the car and supporting it on jack stands will also help to raise them. Why? Air locked inside a coolant system will rise to the top because it’s lighter than the liquid.

Fill up and squeeze

When you are refilling the coolant system, squeeze any coolant and heater hoses to help disturb any air locks. Remove the caps for any expansion or header tanks and also the radiator pressure cap. Continue pouring in the coolant until whatever you are filling is full.

Switch the heater to hot

The heater or climate control must be set to maximum hot. This will open any valves to allow the coolant to flow through the heater’s matrix. Consequently, any air that’s trapped inside the heater will hopefully be removed.

Run the engine

Once the engine coolant has been refilled and no more can be poured in, start the engine. This will help to circulate the coolant and move any air locks. The aim is to allow those air locks to escape. So leave any caps off the header or expansion tank and the radiator. Bleed screws can also be left open to allow air to escape. However, it’s important to watch all of these escape points because coolant may leak out. This can happen when a large air bubble is present, or if the system is overfull.

Whilst the engine is running, top up the coolant if it’s low. And regularly check the coolant temperature gauge in case the engine overheats. This can happen because of an air lock.

Check the coolant hoses are warming up and squeeze them to help disturb any trapped air. Be careful with hot coolant hoses as they can burn your hands.

Refit the pressure cap for the car radiator

With the engine running, there may come a point when no more coolant can be added. When this happens, refit all pressure caps and tighten any bleed screws. Leave the engine to run for a little longer to build up pressure in the coolant system. Next, switch off the engine and leave it for at least half an hour to cool down. Afterwards, check the coolant level and top it up if necessary.

Relevant content: 

• Intercoolers and Radiators Explained

The post How To Bleed a Car Radiator appeared first on Fast Car.

A blowing exhaust can be a bit of an embarrassment. It may sound loud, but to most people it’s hardly the music out of the exhaust on a performance car. Plus, you could get stopped by the police, no matter where you are in the world.

A blowing exhaust can be caused by a wide range of problems, so we’ll examine each one in detail. And perhaps the best starting point is to identify exactly where it’s coming from, which isn’t always so easy.

Where’s the exhaust blowing?

The noise from a blowing exhaust can be difficult to trace. Sound can bounce around an engine bay or underneath a car, making it difficult to track down. Providing the exhaust system isn’t hot, placing a hand close to where you think it’s blowing can help to feel for the problem. Air blown out of the exhaust can be detected.

If you have heatproof gloves, it may be safe to hold the exhaust where you think it’s blowing. This will help to muffle the bit that’s blowing and find the cause.

Spraying soapy liquid over a join or where the exhaust manifold mates to the cylinder head can also help. If air is blowing out of where you spray, it will be easier to spot the soapy liquid. This may turn into frothy bubbles, which are even easier to see.

When looking for the source of a blowing exhaust, remember that the fumes are dangerous and harmful. So make sure there’s plenty of ventilation.

Exhaust manifold blowing

If air is escaping from where the exhaust manifold is secured to the cylinder head, it’s usually fixable. The gasket for this manifold may have failed, which means the manifold needs to be detached. However, our first suggestion is to check all of the nuts or bolts securing the manifold are tight. This can often help to fix a leak, but not always. Don’t overtighten these nuts and bolts, just nip them up to help seal the manifold against the cylinder head. And don’t leave the engine running when tightening these fastenings. The heat can help, especially if they are rusty and possibly seized, but moving components are dangerous. And avoid getting burnt on the hot exhaust manifold.

If the exhaust manifold is still blowing at the cylinder head, fitting a new gasket is our next suggestion.

Loose exhaust clamps

If an exhaust is blowing from a join, it may be possible to tighten that connection to seal it. Exhaust clamps can sometimes rattle loose. Or perhaps the wrong size of exhaust clamp is fitted, which means it won’t seal the connection.

Dismantling a clamp can help to check if it’s the correct size and if it needs replacing. A larger clamp may provide a stronger seal.

Pinprick holes

A small hole can be the cause of a blowing exhaust and it really doesn’t have to be too big. Finding such a hole can be difficult, but our soapy water method can help. Once you’ve found a hole, clean the area with a wire brush or wheel to examine it. This will help to see if and how you can repair it.

Exhaust bandages

An exhaust bandage is a quick fix for a blowing exhaust. It’s ideal for muffling small holes, but can’t fix an exhaust that has rotted in two. It’s essential to clean the area where you intend to fit the bandage. Some bandages need to be fitted wet. Wrap it around the area to repair it. It may help to fit cable ties afterwards.

New gaskets

Where a join in an exhaust is leaking, it may help to tighten any clamps or other fastenings. If that doesn’t help, what next? Where a flange is fitted, there may be a seal or gasket that you can replace. This will involve separating the join where the exhaust is blowing. However, it may not mean that you need to remove the exhaust system. Providing there’s room to separate the exhaust and replace the gasket or seal, you can do it in situ.

Exhaust paste

If an exhaust system is blowing around a join, it may be possible to seal it with exhaust paste. This helps to fill any gaps where a clamp is fitted. Dismantle the join, clean it with a wire brush, then apply some exhaust paste. Reassemble the join, fitting a new clamp if necessary. In some cases, running the engine will enable the exhaust paste to dry as the exhaust warms up and thus you have a fix for your blowing exhaust.

Flexi-sections

A flexible section of an exhaust helps to provide some movement in the system and reduce the risk of fractures. However, if the flexi-section leaks, it’s not so easy to fix. Replacing it is often the only answer.

Large exhaust system holes

A large hole in an exhaust system isn’t so easy to fix with a bandage, exhaust paste or anything else. In most cases, the only answer is to replace that section of the exhaust system.

Repair exhaust sections

Common problems with some exhaust systems have resulted in repair sections becoming available. This often arises on an expensive component, such as a catalytic converter or DPF. If it’s common for a connecting end to corrode and break, then a repair section may be available. This will usually involve removing the component to fit the repair.

Welding repairs

We don’t recommend welding repairs of an exhaust system in situ unless you know what you are doing. Or you ask a professional to do the work for you. On petrol engine cars, the fuel in the tank is a major fire risk. Plus, there are electrics, including an ECU and a battery that can get damaged.

The post How To Fix a Blowing Exhaust appeared first on Fast Car.

Battery chargers have been around almost as long as cars have had batteries, yet in the last couple of decades they’ve become significantly smaller, smarter, and dearer. As such, it can be tricky to decipher which package is the right one for you.

Luckily, we managed to get our hands on a whole bunch of them and decided to put the market’s best car battery chargers through their paces. During the test, there were four criteria for success that we were particularly interested in. Namely; usability, versatility, reconditioning ability (to keep things running smoothly), and any extra useful features that we liked.

So, without further ado, here are the results!

Best Car Battery Chargers

NOCO Genius10UK

Award: Best Buy

RRP: £120

Performance: 12/14

Is it worth the money? 6/6

OVERALL SCORE: 18/20

NOCO may have shot themselves in the foot here because it’s hard to imagine why you’d ever need another charger after buying this one. Not only does it cater for all lead/acid technologies – including 6 volts – it also handles lithium batteries. And, better still, you can select optimum charge cycles for lithium and AGM technologies, including 6-volt AGMs – do such things even exist? All other smart charger staples are present, such as repair and power supply modes. And a manual Force setting allows charging of batteries that are so utterly dead that they aren’t even electronically detectable.

Draper 53491

Award: Recommended

RRP: £69

Performance: 10/14

Is it worth the money? 6/6

OVERALL SCORE: 16/20

Draper’s 53491 is a wallet friendlier alternative to NOCO’s Best Buy. It takes all lead/acid technologies – including 6 volts – in its stride, and also works with lithium batteries. Usual smart charger goodies, like AGM mode and power supply mode, are joined by a couple of leftfield extras: 6-volt power supply and Gel battery mode. Max output is a meaty 10 Amps. But the Draper does have a couple of drawbacks, both concerning neglected batteries. There’s no selectable repair mode, and a battery needs to have at least 3.5 volts of charge for the unit to recognize it.

NOCO Genius5UK

Award: Recommended

RRP: £74

Performance: 9/14

Is it worth the money? 6/6

OVERALL SCORE: 15/20

NOCO’s budget alternative to its BEST BUY retains most of its bigger brother’s clever bits – you’ll be gutted, I’m sure, to hear that it loses the Genius 10’s 6 Volts AGM mode – but max current drops to 5 Amps. In stark contrast, Draper’s 53491 matches that 10 Amp max output but has fewer features. In reality reduced current isn’t a big deal as most batteries – even high-capacity ones – drop to less than 5 Amps draw within a few minutes of the charge cycle starting. Halving the charge current certainly doesn’t mean doubling the charge period.

CTEK CS One

Award:Recommended

RRP: £220

Performance: 11/14

Is it worth the money? 3/6

OVERALL SCORE: 14/20

CTEK’s new, lithium capable, flagship puts ease of use at its core. Its swish panel has just one button and a ring of lights indicating charge time left. Usefully, the first light becoming fully lit means that a battery is game for a starting attempt. CTEK favourites like Reconditioning and Power Supply modes are now accessible via Bluetooth. As is wake-up mode, which safely boosts fully dead lead/acid batteries, and lithiums below their ideal minimum voltage. The clamps, rather cleverly, remain electrically dead until connected, and they’re both black – leaving the unit to figure out mundane stuff like polarity.

CTEK CT5 Time To Go

RRP: £100

Performance: 7/14

Is it worth the money? 5/6

OVERALL SCORE: 12/20

It’s almost as if, when developing their technological tour-de-force CS One, CTEK snook a few features onto this model – basically an uprated version of the evergreen MXS5. The CS One style circle of white indicators – estimating the charge time left in hours – is the most obvious crib. But, be warned, like a sat-nav’s estimated time of arrival, initial estimates aren’t all that accurate. However, a fully illuminated first indicator, again, means there’s enough oomph for a starting attempt. Usual CTEK favourites, Recond and AGM modes, are backed up by an advanced, temperature compensated, 5 Amps charge cycle.

Laser 7652

RRP: £41

Performance: 5/14

Is it worth the money? 6/6

OVERALL SCORE: 11/20

Like CTEK, Laser has honed in on ease of use with this model. Tech heads may appreciate the battery voltage being displayed during charging, but others will prefer the mobile style battery graphic also shown. And, overall, this is a bargain – albeit basic – smart charger. Like most smart units it caters for all lead/acid battery technologies (including 6 Volts), and its automated cycle handles both charging and long-term conditioning. But, other than a winter cycle, there are no other options available. And a battery must have at least 7.5 volts of charge for the unit to recognise it.

Ring RSC612 SmartCharge Premium Plus

RRP: £79

Performance: 6/14

Is it worth the money? 5/6

OVERALL SCORE: 11/20

COMMENTS: Although rather a long in the tooth model, it stands out from the crowd here thanks to a smattering of diagnostic functions. Such as the rating of a battery’s starting power, and various useful alternator tests. Those aside, though, there’s still plenty to like. Whilst the RSC612 doesn’t cater for Lithium batteries, all other lead/acids are within scope. And smart charger essentials present include dedicated Winter, AGM, desulphation/repair, and condition only modes. But age has slightly caught up with the unit: it’s not weatherproofed so should ideally only be used inside, and it doesn’t cope well with really dead batteries.

Sealey Schumacher SCI90S

Performance: 8/14

Is it worth the money? 3/6

OVERALL SCORE: 11/20

A physically bulky, and heavy, unit that has all the abilities of a good smart charger, but uses more traditional technology to achieve them. And it’s a starter charger too: capable of giving a three second blast of up to 150 cranking Amps. But, much like Ring’s RSC612, this unit’s impressive spec – when it was launched – is becoming a little dated now. We like the dedicated modes for small, AGM, Gel, and Calcium batteries. But sadly, the case isn’t weather sealed, so this isn’t a unit you can leave on a car parked outdoors for long-term battery maintenance.

Clarke CB09-12

PRICE: £69

PRICE FROM: www.machinemart.co.uk

Performance: 5/14

Is it worth the money? 5/6

OVERALL SCORE: 10/20

Some parts of this package are really well thought out. Such as a knatty adapter that lets you charge your car’s battery through a cigarette lighter socket. Alternatively, select the charger’s power supply mode, keep it hooked up the through the lighter socket, and swapping a battery without losing memory codes becomes effortless. Another adapter, leading to a lighter socket, allows 12-volt accessories to run directly from the unit. Dedicated modes for small, AGM, Winter, and Calcium batteries, are bonuses. But rather short leads, the lack of a repair function, and patchy performance on really flat batteries lost points.

Wolf WBC180

Award: BEST BUDGET BUY

Performance: 4/14

Is it worth the money? 6/6

OVERALL SCORE: 10/20

It’ll surprise nobody that this wallet friendly entry from Wolf is less sophisticated than most. But if you simply want a gutsy, 10 Amp max current, charger that will safely boost all lead/acid batteries – including 6 volts – then you really can’t go wrong. Especially as the comprehensive LCD display shows charge progress by either current battery voltage or a more intuitive mobile/tablet style graphic. Biggest drawbacks are no dedicated charging cycles, other than a winter mode. And whilst the unit will happily maintenance charge batteries, its unsealed case rules out long-term use on an outdoor car.

CTEK CS Free

RRP: £280

Performance: 8/14

Is it worth the money? 1/6

OVERALL SCORE: 9/20

We still can’t decide if this, the world’s first cordless, lithium capable, battery charger, is genius or bonkers. The unit’s paltry 6Ah of internal charge means it cannot fully charge a big dead battery in one go or away from the mains. But it’s enough to rapid charge (allow around 10 mins) most batteries well enough to start an engine – much like a booster but slower, yet far safer. Add in the CS Free’s ability to charge one battery from another, or a solar panel, and it becomes interesting. But, on its own, it’s just too pricey and limited.

Halfords Advanced Smart Battery Charger

RRP: £35.00

Performance: 3/14

Is it worth the money? 5/6

OVERALL SCORE: 8/20

We love the swish minimalist styling, but a single LED – changing between red (clamps wrong way around), flashing green (charging), and solid green (charged) doesn’t give much of a clue of what’s happening or how long the charge is likely to take. But leave the charger to do its thing, and this 4 Amp max current unit isn’t so bad. Like most models here it caters for all types of 12-volt lead/acid batteries, albeit with no dedicated cycles. Weatherproof construction makes long term conditioning more practical. And the charger reinvigorates batteries discharged right down to 3 volts.

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Words by James Stanbury, first featured in Car Mechanics.

The post Best Car Battery Chargers for 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Plumes of smoke emitted from your car’s exhaust don’t always signify the engine is about to die, but don’t ignore them. There may be condensation inside the exhaust, especially if the car hasn’t been run for a long time. However, there could be issues that need addressing, such as burning oil, worn internal components or head gasket failure. Read on to learn more about typical smoky symptoms and their solutions.

White smoke from the car exhaust

Clouds of condensation

Plumes of white smoke that quickly disappear often means that water is turning to steam. That water may be inside the exhaust system in the form of condensation. This can build up over time, especially if the car hasn’t been used. As the exhaust system warms up when the engine is running, that water also warms up. Eventually, it turns from a liquid to a vapor (steam) and is forced out of the exhaust system.

It’s quite easy to identify steam exiting an exhaust system. Place a large piece of cardboard close to the exhaust tailpipe (about two or three inches away). As the fumes escape, some will hit and settle on the cardboard. Steam will change to water droplets.

If this is happening to your car, and the engine hasn’t been run for a long time, try running the engine several times over consecutive days to see if the plumes of smoke are reduced.

On vehicles that use AdBlue, white cloudy smoke from the exhaust can be caused by failure of the AdBlue injector.

Has the head gasket failed?

Clouds of white smoke that quickly disappear can be caused by a failed head gasket. This is where engine coolant leaks into the combustion chamber of one or more cylinders. The coolant is burnt along with any fuel and air, then emitted through the exhaust system. Coolant mainly consists of water, so when burnt inside the engine, it turns to steam and is seen billowing out of the end of the exhaust. It may smell a little sweet, but don’t breathe in lots of exhaust fumes to find out.

Our cardboard test will help to clarify whether the exhaust fumes contain water. However, also check the coolant level to see if it has dropped. And examine the coolant. If it contains oil, there’s a problem with oil contaminating the coolant. This could be caused by head gasket failure, but could also be a failed oil cooler if it uses coolant to cool it. This won’t cause the steam from the exhaust, so check the underside of the oil filler cap. If it has a milky residue, coolant may have contaminated the oil. Condensation from long periods of not running an engine produces the same milky residue, so further checks may be needed.

Too much fuel can also create white smoke

If an engine is running too rich (overfueling), then this will create plumes of white smoke from the exhaust. This type of smoke doesn’t disappear as quickly as steam. Such a problem can arise through a lack of maintenance along with faulty engine sensors. A clogged air filter and fouled spark plugs, for instance, won’t help. Problems with a lambda/oxygen, mass airflow or air temperature sensor may result in more fuel being fed into the engine.

Overfueling will result in poor fuel consumption, so check the on-board MPG information (if available). Alternatively, fill the fuel tank, drive for 20-30 miles, then fill it again to calculate the MPG.

Diesel engines that have a diesel particulate filter (DPF) may need to regenerate. This is a type of self-cleaning. It involves running the engine at a high rpm and feeding lots of fuel into it. This will affect the MPG. Some engines automatically regenerate the DPF, but diagnostic equipment can be used to identify that this is happening.

If an engine is overfueling, you should fix it before it does any damage. Excessive fuel can wash the cylinder bores, resulting in wear and engine failure.

Blue car exhaust smoke

If the exhaust fumes have a blue tint, this could be caused by a failed head gasket – follow our earlier checks. However, it could also be a sign of a number of other problems, some worse than others. A blocked positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve may be the cause, which can be either unblocked, or replaced. Mark Shipman at AES says this is a common problem on some VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group) cars. An updated PCV and software update are often needed.

The piston rings may have failed, resulting in oil leaking into the combustion chamber and being burnt. If the engine’s oil level has dropped, then this could be the reason.

Problems with piston rings could be down to them sticking, especially if oil changes have been neglected. Adding an engine flush may help, but don’t expect miracles if you don’t know when the oil was last changed.

Oily grey car exhaust smoke

Are there clouds of oily smoke from the exhaust after starting the engine or on overrun? If so, then it’s likely the valve stem oil seals have hardened. This can arise if an engine hasn’t been used for a long time. Oil gets past the hardened valve stem oil seals and seeps into the combustion chamber where it’s burnt.

In some cases, the valve stem oil seals can be changed without having to remove the cylinder head.

Black car exhaust smoke from diesel engine

Diesel engines can often produce more smoke than gasoline engines, but don’t assume that’s okay. Keep on top of maintenance to help reduce this smoke and use good-quality fuel. Also, consider a fuel additive or cleaner. This will help to remove carbon deposits inside the engine that may restrict the burning of fuel, resulting in more fumes.

Mark Shipman says that black smoke from a diesel with a DPF can be caused by a couple of problems. A crack in the DPF is one of them. And if the DPF has been tampered with, this can create black smoke.

The post Car Exhaust Smoke: What The Different Types Mean appeared first on Fast Car.

If you’re as ancient as some of the guys and girls that work here, you’ll remember a time when the only illumination on offer in a garage was a 60-watt wanderlight in a metal cage, plugged into the mains. Nowadays, there is a vast assortment of lighting options to help with your car maintenance, so we decided to look at the most portable of them all: headtorches and handheld inspection lamps.

There are so many of these on the market, offering fantastic features such as motion sensor operation, zoom controls and magnetic swivel bases, so we prepared some thorough garage tasks to put our selection to hard work.

How we tested these products

We visited our local garage and handed over all the inspection lamps to an MOT tester, and all the headtorches to a couple of mechanics. We then left them to complete a variety of jobs inside engine bays, underneath vehicles, and inside wheel arches, in the hope that this would give us the best comprehensive overview of each product in the shortest amount of time.

Happily, it worked out pretty well, because they brought up issues which we had never considered, such as the ease of switching a light on and off when wearing oil-covered gloves (especially important with a headtorch). Plus, they found that some lights dimmed after an hour, despite the specification quoting several hours of battery life – which is a great testament as to why you can’t always take specified figures at face value when reviewing products like this.

Rob Hawkins is the perfect guy to decipher and compile their feedback, as he’s been contributing to Car Mechanics magazine for many years now. So, without further ado, here are the results.

Best Inspection Lamps & Headtorches

Sealey LED3601R

AWARD: Fast Car BEST BUY

RRP: £62.34. Not available in the US. Buy Sealey LED3601R here.

Score: 9/10

This was the inspection lamp our MOT tester preferred. It has a 2W COB LED that produces up to 220 lumens from a 3.7-volt 1.5Ah lithium polymer battery, which lasts for 3-6 hours and takes around three hours to recharge via a micro-USB lead. The illumination is bright and wide, and there’s an additional pencil torchlight on the top, which is useful for directing a beam of light into an engine bay to look for a lost spanner. The raised rubber on/off button at the front of the lamp is easy to find and the body is straightforward to wipe clean.

However, the one feature that really sells this lamp is its magnetic swivel base. It has a ball and socket design, so you can maneuver the top half of the lamp to any angle. We found this to be the most versatile feature of all the lamps tested.

Laser Rechargeable Headlight Torch

AWARD: Fast Car BEST BUDGET BUY

RRP: £22.20. Not available in the US. Buy Laser Headtorch here.

Score: 8/10

Looking more like a miniature camera strapped to the front of your head than a torch, Laser’s model uses a 3W Cree LED bulb, which provides 2-5 hours of illumination from a lithium-ion battery that takes roughly three hours to recharge. There are two settings for illumination and a strobe light that may be useful for cyclists… or garage raves.

You can twist the lens on the front both clockwise and anticlockwise to alter the angle (zoom) of the light, while the entire headtorch itself can be tilted down to 90°, making it easier to illuminate objects below your body and work on something up close. The rubber on/off switch on the top of the headtorch is quite fiddly to operate when wearing gloves, and we found the light started to dim after 1.5 hours, however the price is remarkably low for a compact rechargeable headtorch.

Draper Inspection Lamp

AWARD: Fast Car RECOMMENDED

RRP: Buy the updated version here for £104.00 / $129.28. 

Score: 8/10

Powered by a 3.7-volt 2.6Ah rechargeable lithium-ion battery, Draper’s inspection lamp includes a UV light (useful for leak detection) and an 80-lumens pencil light at the end. The main light provides 350 lumens of illumination from a 4W COB LED, which lasts for around three hours (the pencil light lasts for eight hours and the UV for 28 hours), taking roughly five hours to recharge. A magnetic swivel base makes this lamp very versatile and we found it could provide an adequate 120° of illumination when positioned inside an engine bay, underneath a bonnet, inside a wheel arch and underneath a vehicle (secured to a chassis leg). It’s one of the most popular designs of inspection lamp and finishes second place in our group test, second only to Sealey’s LED3601R that’s smaller, has a more versatile magnetic swivel base and is cheaper.

Sealey HT108LED

AWARD: Fast Car RECOMMENDED

Price: $36.84 / £29.61 from OnBuy.com. Buy Sealey HT108LED here.

Score: 8/10

Illuminated by a 5W Cree LED and powered by a 3.7-volt 2Ah lithium-ion battery, Sealey’s headtorch provides 100 or 360 lumens, lasts for 2-6 hours and takes up to six hours to recharge via a micro-USB lead. The illumination and angle of light is strong and ideal for working in the dark areas of a vehicle, such as a wheel arch, plus you can rotate the body of the torch to help point the light further up or down. The rubber on/off button is quite easy to find on the side.

A rubber grommet/cover for the USB port kept falling off our test model and could easily be lost. A useful feature is the motion sensor, which when set, allows you to switch the torch on and off by waving a hand in front of the lens. This works in an open space, but not so well when working in a wheel arch or underneath a vehicle where objects can switch it on and off accidentally.

Laser Tools Racing Beanie Hat

RRP: $25.98 / £20.90. Buy the Laser Tools Racing beanie here.

Score: 8/10

This is a novel light if you wear a hat when working on a vehicle. Beanie hats have long been available with a small light attached, but Laser’s product goes a step further. The four LEDs offer three settings of brightness up to 120 lumens and can last for between 1.5-4 hours. The light unit can be removed from inside the hat and plugged into the USB port to recharge, which takes roughly 90 minutes. The lamp can be replaced if required (part number 60475) and costs £6.46. At such a low price, this beanie hat with built-in headtorch is good value for money and provides a sufficient amount of lighting for its size.

Philips RCH21S

Price: $99.44 / £79.99. Buy the Philips RCH21S here.

Score: 6/10

This compact handheld inspection light from Philips produces 120-350 lumens, which can last for 3.5-6 hours. The lithium-ion battery takes a couple of hours to recharge via a docking station, which is less convenient than many of the other inspection lamps on test, where a USB lead plugged into the back is all you need. The head of the light has a hinge, so you can position it downwards to illuminate objects below. There’s no magnetic base, only a magnet on the back, so it’s not possible to stand the light upright in an engine bay, unless, say, it can be fitted against an inner wing.

The on/off button is hard to find when wearing gloves and there’s no pencil light to help illuminate a small area. By contrast, the main light provides wide and bright illumination. This is the most expensive inspection lamp on test and, sadly, cheaper units such as the Sealey Best Buy are more versatile.

Not found what you’re looking for? Try our guide to LED Slimline lamps instead.

The post Best Inspection Lamps and Headtorches In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

We’ve already tested a selection of head torches and inspection lamps, however, the next generation of illumination equipment appears to be small, slim and adjustable. Perfect for your routine car maintenance.

We’re talking compact, folding lamps – many of which you can clip to, or carry in, your pocket. You can also fold them out, secure them to a metal surface, or hang them up to illuminate whichever part of the car you require.

So, are they as handy as they sound? Here’s what I thought about some of the best LED slimline lamps that you can buy today.

At a glance:

• Best Buy: Ring MAGflex Pivot. RRP: £39.99. Not available in the US. Buy the Ring MAGflex Pivot here.
• Best Budget Buy: Laser Foldable Inspection Lamp. RRP: $30/£27.13.Buy Laser Foldable Inspection Lamp now.
• Recommended: Sealey SlimFlex LED1801. RRP: £74.94. Not available in the US. Buy Sealey SlimFlex here.

How I tested these products

I considered using a points scoring system to assess our range of lamps, awarding marks for battery life on minimum and maximum settings and maximum lumens output. I also deducted points for recharge time and price (i.e. the lower these amounts, the fewer points were taken off). And I awarded points for having more light settings, a greater reach, a quick method of switching off, a battery indicator and a universal charge lead (micro USB). However, I discovered some categories were subjective and helped to unfairly boost the total points for certain products.

Caveats to consider

For instance, I found the recommended prices varied too much, with some manufacturers sticking to their recommended retail values, whereas others relied on the cheapest offer on Amazon, so I decided to remove this category from the points table. When it came to awarding the Best Budget Buy, this was an equally tough decision, which was based on features, performance and average price.

Although our points scoring method helped to rank the lamps on test, it couldn’t cater for opinions on how easy each lamp was to use – such as whether it could be easily positioned inside an engine bay or over a brake caliper. So I spent several months using these lamps in various workshops to discover their uses, plus points and niggling faults.

We also cannot cater for the needs of individuals. For instance, I spoke to several mechanics, many of whom seem to prefer a sturdy and reasonably compact lamp with a strong magnetic base. The smallest and lightest lamps I tested didn’t appeal to them, possibly because they feared they would be too fragile and too easy to lose. Such opinions were the opposite to those of most of our editorial team, who prefer a lightweight, compact and slim lamp for transporting and positioning in tight spots.

Best LED Slimline Lamps

Ring MAGflex Pivot

Award: Best Buy.
RRP: £39.99. Not available in the US. Buy the Ring MAGflex Pivot here.
Score: 9/10

This is powered by a 3.7-volt 2.6Ah lithium-ion battery, which powers an 80 lumens torch on the tip and a 400 lumens bank of LEDs on the folding arm. Taking up to four hours to fully charge, the torch should last for 12 hours, whereas the main lamp lasts for three hours. Ring supplies a special power lead for recharging the lamp’s battery, unlike most other products that use a universal micro-USB lead. A series of four blue lights on the back of the lamp display the state of the battery when the lamp is in use, and indicate when the battery is fully-charged during a recharge.

You control the lamp’s main LEDs via a rotating wheel on the back of the body. The rotating wheel means you don’t have to operate the lamp at maximum brightness, which helps to extend the battery life. Measuring a mere 125mm in length when folded and 232mm when extended, Ring’s MAGflex Pivot is a compact folding lamp that’s small enough to be carried in a pocket.

With a magnetic base/back, metal hook and a 180° swiveling arm, every position is covered when it comes to illuminating objects inside an engine bay or wheel arch. This is one of only two of the slim lamps we’re testing that have magnets on the back of the body – the other being Sealey’s SlimFlex. It was tough deciding our favorite of the two, with Ring winning for being smaller, cheaper and having a display for the state of battery, despite losing points for not having a universal charge lead and a torch switch that’s too easy to catch and accidentally switch on. You may think otherwise.

Laser Foldable Inspection Lamp

AWARD: Best Budget Buy.
RRP: $30/£27.13. Buy now.
Score: 8/10

This compact, foldable inspection lamp measures 148mm in length when folded and 270mm when extended. It’s powered by a 2Ah lithium-ion battery, which is recharged via a micro USB lead and takes three hours to fully recharge. A series of four blue lights on the back of the lamp’s body show the state of charge of the battery when the lamp is in use, and also indicate its status when recharging.

A single LED on the end of the foldable arm provides a torch, and there’s another strip of LEDs that provide up to 550 lumens of illumination. The arm of the lamp not only folds out, it also swivels 180°, so it covers every angle of illumination. I found the magnetic base was one of the weakest on test, but sufficient to hold the lamp in position on a variety of metal surfaces, unless they were particularly uneven.

The torch should provide illumination for up to four hours, whereas there are no details concerning how long the 550 lumens strip of LEDs should last for. So, I tested this and found that 2hrs 10mins was roughly the limit.

A rubber-coated switch on the back needs to be pressed several times to choose between two levels of brightness for the torch and three for the strip of LEDs, plus a red strobe and red light, which may prove useful in the event of a vehicle breakdown. The switch needs a firm press with a finger, so there’s little risk of accidentally switching it on if it’s stored in a bag or pocket.

Sealey SlimFlex LED1801

AWARD: Recommended.
RRP: £74.94. Not available in the US. Buy Sealey SlimFlex here.
Score: 8/10

This was a favorite among many of the mechanics and those on the editorial team who used it during testing. Powered by a 3.7-volt 2.6Ah lithium-ion battery, Sealey’s compact folding inspection lamp has a 1-watt torch on the tip, which should last for up to eight hours, and 12 SMD LEDs on its folding arm, which can provide up to 500 lumens of light and last for up to three hours. Recharging takes up to four hours via a micro-USB lead, or an optional extra docking station (LED1801K).

There’s an on/off switch on the back of the lamp and this requires a firm press, so it’s not so easy to accidentally switch the torch on. You operate the main lamp via a plastic wheel on the back; simply rotate it to turn it on. The wheel also adjusts the brightness. Just like the torch, it is not easy to accidentally catch the wheel and switch on the lamp, as there is effectively a safety switch whereby the wheel clicks when the lamp is switched on before it becomes easier to operate and adjust the brightness.

The lamp’s folding arm can swivel 180°, so along with a magnetic base, back and plastic hook, it can provide illumination at all angles. One feature I particularly like is the magnetic back, which enables the lamp to secure to the underside of a bonnet, for example. This lamp and Ring’s MAGflex Pivot are the only lamps on test to offer such a feature.

Measuring nearly 300mm when fully extended and 163mm when folded, Sealey’s lamp isn’t the smallest, but it’s not far off and it provides the brightest illumination for its size and type.

Draper 7W Slimline Inspection Lamp

RRP: $120.00 / £115.34. Buy the Draper 7W Slimline here. 
Score: 7/10

This is the largest foldable slim lamp on test, measuring 220mm when folded and 397mm when extended. However, the extra size equates to extra performance from a 3.7-volt, 2.6Ah inbuilt battery that powers a 700 lumens bank of COB LEDs, or the 60 lumens SMD LED torch.

With a charge time of up to four hours via a micro USB lead, the torch should last for up to 15 hours, whereas the more powerful COB LEDs at full capacity will last for only a couple of hours. Three green lights on the back of the body indicate the charge remaining in the battery, and also help during recharging.

With a foldable and swiveling arm, and a magnetic base and plastic hook alongside, there seems to be no angle this lamp can’t cope with for illuminating inside a wheel arch or engine bay. This is quite a sturdy lamp, with an IP54 rating, so it’s reasonably water resistant. The rubber and plastic exterior coating seem to be durable and we managed to get our test lamp thoroughly filthy, but it cleaned up well with an old scouring pad and some washing-up liquid.

If you need a lamp, this one is certainly worth considering.

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The post Best LED Slimline Lamps In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Brake fluid is a largely uninteresting topic in the grand scheme of cars, but it’s one which you shouldn’t ignore if you want to keep your ride in top shape. If you’re unsure where to start, fear not – this guide has got you covered.

Why do I need to change brake fluid?

The fluid contained inside most cars’ braking system is a non-compressible, glycol ether-based, hydraulic fluid. Most of us simply know it as either DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 brake fluid. Unfortunately, this type of fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. This can then cause internal corrosion of steel components inside the braking system, such as the pistons inside a brake caliper.

Whilst internal corrosion is a problem, that unwanted water can also adversely affect braking performance. Particularly if the temperature of the brake fluid rises above 212 Fahrenheit (100°C), which is the boiling point of water. The water inside the brake fluid boils and results in a spongy brake pedal, or worse (no braking pressure).

Silicone-based brake fluid isn’t hygroscopic (it’s hydrophobic), but water can still get into the fluid. In such circumstances, it will settle at the lowest level, which is often at a caliper, causing corrosion.

How often should I change brake fluid?

Most brake fluid should be refreshed every couple of years to help reduce the risk of it becoming contaminated with moisture. However, there are a number of tools that you can use to test the moisture content of the fluid. This helps to determine whether or not you should change it. Expect to pay upwards of a tenner for a battery-powered brake fluid tester. Most can be dipped into the brake fluid inside the reservoir.

Tools needed to change brake fluid

Modern equipment such as anti-lock braking systems (ABS) means DIY methods of changing the brake fluid aren’t possible on some vehicles. This is because the ABS needs to be operated to push the brake fluid through. It can sometimes be done with diagnostic equipment or a separate pump. The Mk2 Toyota Prius, for instance, requires equipment to communicate with its ECU to refresh the brake fluid.

If you are confident you can refresh the brake fluid without such equipment, then you will need a few tools. It’s all about bleeding the brakes. And it starts with the correct-sized wrench to be able to open each bleed nipple at each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. This will enable old brake fluid to be forced out and replaced by fresh fluid.

You’ll need some means of collecting the old fluid, such as a glass or plastic jar. Plus, a clear hose to fit over the bleed nipple to direct the fluid into it. This is less messy than allowing fluid to drip out and potentially peel the paint off your wheels. These are the basic tools, but there are more specific tools, which we’ll cover later.

How do you change brake fluid in a car?

Where to start

Make sure that all of the bleed nipples on the brakes can be slackened. There’s no point trying to refresh the brake fluid if you can’t extract the fluid through them. If any are seized, apply penetrating fluid.

It’s worthwhile extracting the old brake fluid from the reservoir first. This is easier with a syringe to suck it out. Most brake fluid is corrosive to paintwork, so carefully transfer the fluid to a container.

With most or all of the fluid extracted from the reservoir, top it up with fresh brake fluid. Keep checking the reservoir throughout the job to keep it topped up. Start at the brake that’s furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir. So, if the reservoir is on the left side of the engine bay, start at the rear right brake.

Ask a friend

If you can find a volunteer, ask them to sit in the driver’s seat and to pump the brake pedal. Then hold it with the pedal pressed. Attach the clear hose to the bleed nipple of the brake furthest away from the reservoir. Slacken it and collect any fluid that squirts out. Your volunteer should notice the brake pedal has sunk to the floor. Tighten the bleed nipple and ask them to release the pedal.

You can now repeat this, although they won’t need to pump the pedal several times, just hold it pressed. You’ll then be able to slacken and tighten the bleed nipple to allow the brake fluid to exit. When you’ve flushed enough fresh brake fluid through the first bleed nipple, move on to the next. Finish at the brake that’s closest to the reservoir and don’t forget to keep checking the fluid level in the reservoir as you’ll need to top it up.

One person methods

If you can’t find a volunteer, then there are several solutions to bleeding the brakes on your own. Equipment such as a Gunson Eezibleed kit uses the pressure from a tire (around 20psi is enough) to push the fresh brake fluid through. It’s supplied with several caps for the brake fluid reservoir to connect to the Eezibleed. So, providing you have the right size of cap, all you need to do is walk around the vehicle, slackening and tightening each bleed nipple. Always start at the one furthest from the reservoir.

A one-way bleed valve is another one-person method of refreshing brake fluid. This attaches to a bleed nipple, but won’t let air or fluid back in. So you can slacken a bleed nipple, gently pump the brake pedal to push fluid through, then tighten it afterwards.

Using a hose attached to a bleed nipple at one end and a container with brake fluid already in it is another one-person method. Gently pumping the pedal will draw fluid in, but not air. Hold the pedal down (e.g. with a length of wood) before tightening the bleed nipple. This will reduce the risk of air being drawn up the hose and through the nipple.

Final checks

When you have bled the brakes with fresh brake fluid, check all bleed nipples are tight and look for leaks. Press the brake pedal to ensure it feels firm and doesn’t become firmer after several presses. If it gets firmer the more you press it, air may have got inside, so bleed the brakes again.

Finally, run the engine and make sure the brakes still work, then slowly set off and test them again. Go for a test drive, braking regularly, then return, check for leaks and check the reservoir’s level.

Relevant content: 

• Brake Fluid Guide
• Best Brake Pads & Rotors in 2023
• Performance Brakes Guide

The post How To Change Brake Fluid appeared first on Fast Car.

Hydraulic brake circuits have been in use for several decades, replacing rod-operated brakes over 70 years ago. Despite the rapid development of electronic parking brakes, the system for the foot brake remains hydraulically operated for now. This liquid-filled system has evolved with servo-assistance, wear indicators, and anti-lock systems that we now expect as standard fitment. Knowing about brake fluid will help with your understanding of car maintenance and keep you motoring along safely.

Amidst all this emerging technology, though, does anyone understand the figures for wet and dry DOT ratings? Or what brake fluid is made from and the difference between silicone and synthetic? If that’s something you need to catch up on, read further.

What is brake fluid made of?

Most hydraulic brake fluid is glycol-ether based, which is a non-compressible liquid. This is essential for brakes where a press of the brake pedal must ensure the fluid operates the calipers and/or wheel cylinders. Should it undergo compression (this is what happens to water), then the brake pedal may feel spongy and inconsistent. In other words, the brake pedal doesn’t efficiently transfer the force you apply through to the brakes.

However, instead of talking about compression of fluid, brake fluid standards are concerned with its viscosity. This is its thickness. International standards such as the SAE, FMVSS, ISO and JIS quote a minimum viscosity at 100⁰C (212 degrees Fahrenheit) and a maximum viscosity at -40⁰C. Brake fluid manufacturers have to comply with specific viscosity ratings for these two extremes of temperature. They also have to comply with boiling points, which we’ll explain later.

Paint damage

Glycol-ether based brake fluid can damage paintwork if a small or large amount comes into contact with it. It’s not as bad as paint stripper, but it marks paintwork and is time-consuming and potentially expensive to repair.

Silicone-based brake fluid is an alternative to glycol-ether and it doesn’t damage paintwork. However, some people have found it doesn’t provide the same firm feeling of braking when pressing the foot brake.

Water absorption

Glycol-ether based brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. This can cause corrosion of steel components inside the braking system, such as the pistons inside a brake caliper. Some brake fluid contains anti-corrosion additives to help prevent this.

Water in the brake fluid can adversely affect braking performance. Especially if the temperature of the brake fluid rises above the boiling point of water at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100°C). If the water inside the brake fluid boils, the brake pedal may feel spongy, suggesting that the braking system has lost pressure.

Silicone-based brake fluid is hydrophobic, which means it doesn’t absorb or mix with moisture. However, if water contaminates the brake fluid, it settles at a low point, which could be at a brake caliper. That can mean corrosion still occurs and the separated water can boil if the brakes are too hot.

What are the different types of brake fluid?

DOT-ratings

The American Department of Transportation (DOT) has devised a number of ratings for brake fluid. They are based on two values concerning boiling points, which is when the brake fluid loses its efficiency. One of them is the brake fluid’s dry boiling point, measured when the fluid is fresh, and known as the minimum ERBP (Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point).

The other is known as a wet boiling point, which occurs after exposure to air and moisture from the surrounding environment. This is known as the minimum WERBP (Wet Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point) and is measured when the fluid contains 3.7% moisture.

For DOT 3 brake fluid, the minimum ERBP is 401 degrees Fahrenheit (205⁰C). For the same brake fluid that contains moisture (wet), the minimum boiling point is 284 degrees Fahrenheit (140⁰C).

DOT 4 brake fluid’s boiling points are slightly higher – 446 degrees Fahrenheit (230⁰C) for fresh (dry) fluid and 311 degrees Fahrenheit (155⁰C) for wet.

DOT 5 only covers silicone-based brake fluid, with a fresh boiling point of 500 degrees Fahrenheit (260⁰C). For the same brake fluid in a wet state, it’s 356 degrees Fahrenheit (180⁰C).

DOT 5.1 is the highest rating for glycol-ether based brake fluid, and requires the minimum boiling point of fresh fluid to be 518 degrees Fahrenheit (270⁰C). Meanwhile, wet fluid rated at DOT 5.1 needs to have a minimum boiling point of 374 degrees Fahrenheit (190⁰C).

Remember that the boiling points we’ve mentioned are only a minimum value, so some brake fluid might have a much higher boiling point.

Do DOTs help?

If you want the best performance from your brakes, should you only use DOT 5.1? In theory, yes, but remember that other components can fail under extreme temperatures. Brake pads may fade under hard braking. Brake rotors can warp under extreme heat. Rubber flexi-hoses can expand and reduce braking pressure. Using brake fluid with the highest boiling point won’t help to preserve these other brake components.

Can you mix different types of brake fluid?

Mixing different DOT-rated brake fluid isn’t recommended, especially glycol-ether and silicone-based fluids. It’s better to stick with one brand of brake fluid to ensure you know what the boiling points should be. So, if you are refreshing the brake fluid with a different DOT-rating, use plenty of new fluid. This will ensure the old fluid is fully flushed through with the new stuff.

When do I need a brake fluid change?

You should ideally refresh your car’s brake fluid every couple of years, regardless of how often the vehicle is used. The moisture that either becomes absorbed or collected in the hydraulic system needs to be removed. Refreshing the brake fluid is the best way to do this, and you can read our guide on how to change brake fluid here.

There are a number of ways to measure the moisture content in the brake fluid. This helps to determine whether the brake fluid needs changing, but we still recommend changing it every two years.

A brake fluid tester will help to measure the moisture content in the brake fluid. They can cost under a tenner at the bottom end of the market, and are usually battery-operated. LED lights help to show the level of moisture inside the sample of brake fluid that’s being tested. However, it doesn’t measure the brake fluid’s boiling point, which is perhaps more important.

The post Brake Fluid Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Power tools can be much less time-consuming than using wrenches/spanners and traditional socket ratchet drivers. However, when it comes to small fittings that aren’t particularly tight, you don’t need an electric or air-fed high-torque impact driver that could shear a bolt head or strip a thread with one slip of your trigger finger. Instead, there are a number of compact cordless power tools that aren’t so aggressive and are small enough to fit into tight spaces.

We collected an assortment of them from manufacturers including Draper, Sealey, and Milwaukee, and put them to the test over several months. Find out the results below.

How we tested these products

We considered several methods of testing the impact drivers and ratchets we selected. For instance, we could have compared their accuracy for tightening a nut and bolt to their maximum claimed torque setting, but we realized this wasn’t the point of buying such equipment. Instead, we used the tools for several months to see which ones were easiest to operate, could get into tight spots, and were reliable.

We handed them all over to a trusted garage, MJ Motors, whose mechanics were happy to compare and contrast the tools. After several weeks, we realized the tools had become quite grimy with dirt and grease, so we tried to clean them, which helped us evaluate their exterior coatings and establish which tools will still look good after prolonged use. General wear and tear is, however, impossible to compare unless each piece of equipment is used for the same tasks and the same length of time. Overall though, we’re happy that we’ve managed to collect a good deal of well-rounded, user-focused feedback.

Best Cordless Impact Ratchets & Drivers

At a glance:

• Best Buy: Sealey CP1204KIT Wrench. RRP: £173.94, buy now. Not available in the US.
• Best Budget Buy: Draper Storm Force 10.8V Cordless Ratchet. RRP: £70.05, buy now. Not available in the US.
• Editor’s Choice: Sealey CP1202KIT Ratchet. RRP: £83.94, buy now. Not available in the US.
• Recommended: Milwaukee M12 IR-201B. RRP: £199.99, buy now. Not available in the US.

Sealey CP1204KIT Wrench

Award: Best Buy
RRP: £173.94, buy now. Not available in the US.
Score: 9/10

The Sealey CP1204KIT impact wrench is powered by a 12V 1.5Ah lithium-ion battery, which you can recharge in one hour. This impact driver has a 3/8in square drive, so it can be fitted with a number of impact sockets. Producing a maximum of 80Nm of torque, we found this to be more than adequate for undoing small fittings and, due to the compact size of the driver, it can be squeezed into some tight spots. There’s a variable speed trigger and the usual lock function to prevent the impact wrench accidentally operating. Unlike the impact ratchets we tested, the impact drivers don’t provide as much kickback when they attempt to undo a fastening that’s too tight or when they fully tighten a nut or bolt, because the motor absorbs more of the impact.

With only two impact drivers/wrenches to test, and both of them being from Sealey, the choice of which one is best is quite straightforward. This cheaper tool is suited for lighter jobs and occasional use, whereas the Premier driver (scroll down further) can cope with bigger jobs. Despite our professional test mechanics favoring the Premier brand for daily use, this driver at a third of the price is more suited for the average DIYer, unless you regularly tackle bigger jobs. And being the most compact tool on test, it ticks more boxes as an all-round battery-operated impact tool.

Draper Storm Force 10.8V Cordless Ratchet

Award: Best Budget Buy
RRP: £70.05, buy now. Not available in the US.
Score: 8/10

Draper’s Storm Force range of 10.8V cordless power tools all use the same batteries and include a combination drill, ¼in impact driver, reciprocating saw and this impact ratchet. A flat battery should take one hour to recharge. This cordless ratchet has a 3/8in square drive, making it suitable for fitting impact sockets. There’s also an LED light to help illuminate the work area.

It’s approximately the same size as the Milwaukee M12 IR-201B and very similar in design to the Sealey ratchet, right down to the shape of the metal trigger and the three lights on the body to indicate the state of the battery life. Draper’s impact ratchet has a maximum torque of 45Nm, which is the same as the equivalent Sealey (below) and 2Nm less than the Milwaukee. However, we’ve concluded that a high-torque value isn’t required for most situations where you’re tightening small fittings and risk potentially overtightening them. If you can’t undo a fitting because the impact ratchet cannot produce enough torque, then you can use it like a manual ratchet driver.

As we discovered with all impact ratchets, once they lock up when attempting to tighten or loosen a fitting, this provides some kickback in the body, which can transfer to your wrist. Overall, this impact ratchet worked just as effectively as the one from Sealey.

Sealey CP1202KIT Ratchet

Award: Editor’s Choice
RRP: £83.94, buy now. Not available in the US.
Score: 8/10

With the same size and design of body and battery as Draper’s Storm Force, Sealey’s impact ratchet has a lithium-ion 12V 1.5Ah battery instead of Draper’s 10.8V. Supplied as a kit with a canvas bag, there are two batteries and a charger, which promises a recharge time of one hour. There’s a battery status indicator on the charger, as well as three lights on the body of the ratchet to show the charge status.

The 3/8in square drive on the end of the impact ratchet enables you to fit a wide range of mid-sized impact sockets. Just like all the impact ratchets we’re testing, the Sealey tool can be used as a manual ratchet driver if required, which is safer when attempting to undo a stubborn nut and bolt – all the impact ratchets kick back a little when they cannot undo a fastening. With a maximum torque of 45Nm (the same as the Draper and 2Nm less than the Milwaukee), we found this to be sufficient for undoing and tightening the majority of small fittings.

If you want a budget-priced impact ratchet, then it’s a tough choice between this one and Draper’s Storm Force. Shopping around for deals may help you decide, so check out the promotions below:

Milwaukee M12 IR-201B

Award: Recommended
RRP: £199.99, buy now. Not available in the US.
Score: 8/10

Mechanic Dan Smith at MJ Motors already uses one of these battery-powered impact ratchets and, after trying all of the other tools, he still favored the Milwaukee. The compact driver is only powerful enough to tighten a fastening up to 47Nm, so we struggled to undo stubborn brake caliper slider bolts, but we could use it like a manual ratchet driver and undo the fastening, before finishing off with battery-powered assistance. Even at a mere 47Nm, there was quite a kickback from the ratchet when it locked and couldn’t undo or tighten a fastening any further. However, this is typical of the battery-powered ratchet drivers we tested, due to their design.

A metal paddle switch provides variable control of the trigger when operating, and illumination from an LED helps to highlight the work area and remains lit after releasing the trigger. Plus, there is a bank of LEDs on the body of the driver to show the state of charge of the battery, which takes 40 minutes to fully recharge.

After several weeks of use, this impact ratchet was looking well and truly filthy, so we carefully and gently cleaned it using a soap-soaked pan scourer. We had to take care not let any liquid drip through the vents on the body, which could cause a short circuit, but afterwards the impact ratchet looked as good as new.

Sealey Premier 14.4V Impact Driver

Score: 7/10

Sealey’s Premier range of impact drivers and ratchets are a step above the entry-level models in terms of features, performance and price. For the extra money, you get a couple of 14.4V 2.0Ah lithium-ion batteries with a 40-minute recharge time, plus a two-year warranty (one year for the 12V impact ratchet and driver). However, the biggest selling point has got to be its maximum torque, which is a whopping 140Nm – that’s enough to slacken and tighten most wheel nuts! And there’s no kickback from the driver when you tighten a fitting to this amount or can’t undo something.

Of all the impact drivers on test, this was the favorite with the mechanics and apprentices at MJ Motors because it was sufficiently compact to squeeze into tight spots and offered a greater range of torque. Mechanic Mike Smith said this one feels better to handle and seems to be well-balanced. Our only reservation concerns overtightening, but with a variable speed trigger you can control this. However, we concluded that if you don’t need the extra torque, the cheaper 12V driver is just as useful. After several months of use we discovered that sockets were often difficult to remove from the 3/8in square end of the driver, suggesting the ball bearing that helps to keep a socket securely fitted may have become clogged with dirt.

Sealey Premier 14.4V Impact Ratchet

Score: 6/10

On paper, Sealey’s top-of-the-range impact ratchet seems impressive, with power supplied by a 14.4V 2.0Ah lithium-ion battery (there’s a spare included) that can be recharged in 40 minutes. This impact ratchet offers the highest maximum torque of all the ratchets we’re testing at 68Nm. Sadly, some of our testers found it too bulky to squeeze into tight spots. It’s bigger than the other impact ratchets and the weight of the battery unbalances it, making it awkward to use. It offers all the great features of the impact ratchets we tested: a light for illumination, a variable speed trigger (with lockout) and a 3/8in square drive, but its bulky size lets it down.

You could argue that’s the price you pay for a more powerful battery that produces more torque and possibly lasts longer, so if you can put up with the larger size, it’s worth considering.

After several weeks of use, the body of the Sealey unit had not only become dirty, but some of the grey paint had worn off. This may have been our fault through use and abuse, but it possibly highlights the fact that the other tools, with their plastic and rubber coatings, are more durable.

The post Best Cordless Impact Ratchets & Drivers for 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Engine coolant (also known as antifreeze) has a hard life and a demanding job, and as a result, should be part of your routine car maintenance.

What does engine coolant do?

In winter, it needs to cope with freezing temperatures to avoid the risk of turning into a solid. Freezing-up can cause internal damage to the engine, such as fracturing a waterway and causing it to leak. During the summer, it needs to maintain the engine’s temperature to ensure it doesn’t get too hot. Plus, the coolant needs to prevent internal corrosion of the engine. Internal corrosion can result in porous waterways and a build-up of silt that blocks outlets and the water pump.

What is OAT, IAT, MEG or MPG engine coolant?

There are a number of abbreviations concerning coolant. Knowing what they mean can help to understand what you need to use.

• OAT stands for organic acid technology, although sometimes it’s called organic additive technology. It contains organic acid corrosion inhibitors such as carboxylates and triazole. This is a type of coolant that’s usually pink-colored and used in modern engines. It generally lasts for around six years before it should be drained and refreshed, but some products are for life.
• IAT stands for inorganic additive technology and it’s usually used in the blue-colored coolant for older engines. It means the chemicals added to the coolant that protect against corrosion are inorganic in nature. Examples include borates, silicates and nitrates. Inorganic chemicals are mined from the earth and refined.
• MEG stands for monoethylene glycol, which is an organic compound. It lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point of the water it’s mixed with.
• MPG (when it comes to coolant) stands for monopropylene glycol, not miles per gallon. Just like MEG, it’s an organic compound and used in the same way for coolant. However, unlike MEG, MPG is non-toxic. Consequently, it’s used in industrial cooling systems around food production.

Which color coolant should you get?

Traditionally, blue-colored coolant is for older engines. It lasts for a couple of years before it should be drained and refreshed. Pink-colored coolant is for modern engines and, as mentioned, lasts for around six years, but some is for life. Confusingly, there’s also green-colored coolant, which may be a nitrite-free hybrid liquid that’s used in some classic Jaguars.

So unfortunately, this color recognition doesn’t always work. The color is only for cosmetic purposes, so unless you know what’s been used, you can’t tell what’s in it.

Long lasting engine coolant

Some OAT coolants have a longer lifespan than the typical six years. This is because of the low depletion of its corrosion inhibitors (e.g. carboxylate acid). So if they don’t deplete, then the coolant continues to prevent corrosion. Similarly, its freezing and boiling points remain suitably low and high.

Engine coolant and corrosion protection

Corrosion protection is a very important job for coolant, just as important as preventing freezing and boiling. A layer of those rust inhibitors form on metal surfaces where there’s the risk of corrosion.

Inside the waterways of an engine, there are several areas where corrosion can emerge. For instance, where an aluminum cylinder head makes contact with a cast iron engine block. Another example is where cylinder head studs travel through the coolant, and generally throughout an aluminum block or head.

The effects of corrosion can be disastrous. Aluminum can turn porous, resulting in coolant leaking out of the engine or into a combustion chamber. A rusted cylinder head stud can mean the cylinder head is difficult to remove. Similarly, corrosion between aluminum and cast iron can make it difficult to separate components such as a water pump. A corroded steel coolant pipe can spring a leak. And rust particles can block waterways, the water pump, thermostat and radiator, resulting in overheating.

How to test engine coolant

The boiling and freezing capacity of coolant can be checked with an antifreeze tester. These vary in price, but most are under $20. The cheaper coolant testers extract a sample of coolant and a floating gauge measures its freezing and boiling points. A refractometer is a little more expensive, but is regarded as being more accurate.

Whilst an antifreeze tester will measure the temperature range of the coolant, it doesn’t help to check how effective it is at preventing corrosion. So if you are unsure about the age of your engine’s coolant, drain and replenish it. Similarly, if you don’t know what type of coolant is inside your engine, it may be worthwhile changing it. Don’t rely on its color to identify it.

What happens if you mix different engine coolants?

If you’re unsure what type of coolant is in your engine, it’s difficult to choose a product for topping up. And in some cases, it can cause major problems. Mixing the typically blue-colored coolant with pink can cause the liquid to congeal. The congealed residue can block waterways and the water pump.

Even if you know what type of coolant is used in your engine, be careful with how it’s diluted. Too much neat coolant doesn’t help to further lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point. It needs to be diluted to around 50:50 in most cases.

Coolant upgrades and alternatives

Products like Motul MoCool helps to reduce the coolant temperature by up to 59 degrees Fahrenheit (15°C). It does this by improving thermal exchange and the efficiency of the cooling system. It’s a non-glycol-based additive for use in race engines where a glycol-based product cannot be used. In such circumstances, the engine may only be run for a few minutes, such as at a sprint or hill climb event, so the cooling system may be very simple with no water pump to help maximize engine power.

Products like Evans Waterless coolant have a boiling point above 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190°C). It also operates at a lower pressure than traditional coolant. Switching to it requires all traces of water to be removed from the engine using a Prep Fluid. And water cannot be added to the engine if the coolant level is low.

Be sure to check out our best engine coolant guide in 2023 for buying advice.

The post Engine Coolant Guide appeared first on Fast Car.

Ensuring your tire pressures are correct is not a major concern for most motorists, until you realize the consequences of an over- or under-inflated tire. Excessive wear, increased fuel consumption and poor handling are some of the problems that can arise, not to mention the safety concerns. So, if you’re keen to maintain your tire pressures, a pressure gauge is a worthwhile investment.

There are hundreds of different types of tire pressure gauge, including units with analogue or digital readouts, gauges on foot pumps and combined electric inflators/gauges. We decided to narrow down the choice and test 10 digital types. These promise to be accurate and easy to use, while many have useful built-in features such as a backlight to help see the readout in the dark and a torch to help locate the tire valve. Some can also measure tread depth and most of them can provide tire pressure measurements in Psi (pounds per square inch), Bar, Kg/cm2 and kPa (kilopascal).

Rob Hawkins spent several months testing all of the gauges and discovered some interesting differences to help us pinpoint the best and worst. The prices quoted are the recommended retail prices and you can often find cheaper prices by shopping around. Rob is a regular contributor to the popular Car Mechanics magazine. He’s an experienced writer and product tester who has been working on cars for decades. This involves restoring vehicles as magazine projects as well as testing the latest products.

At a glance: 

• Best Buy: PCL DTPG7, RRP: £31.87. Buy now.
• Best Budget Buy: Blackline SWE310, RRP: £4.56. Buy now.
• Recommended: Ring Automotive RTG7, RRP: £24.99. Buy now.

PCL DTPG7 Digital Tire Pressure Gauge – Best Buy!

Score: 9/10 – Best Buy!
Measurements: Psi, Bar, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +3%
Batteries: CR2032
Backlight: Yes
Torch: Yes
Price: £31.87. Buy now.

Of all the compact handheld tire pressure gauges on test, this one is easiest to understand. Four labelled buttons clearly explain each function, so you can see how to switch on the gauge, choose the correct unit of measurement and take a reading. A button labelled ‘LIGHT’ switches on the backlight upon the first press. Then a blue torch (keeping the backlight on as well). It then switches both of them off with a third press.

A ‘MODE’ button switches between pressure readings and a millimeter scale for a digital tread depth function. At first, this had us puzzled. That was until we spotted a plastic tag on the back of the gauge, which is the slider for the tread depth gauge that protrudes out of the top of the device. As all the rest of our gauges on test produce analogue readings for tread depth. This is seemingly the most accurate and easiest to read. Overall, this gauge is straightforward to use and its single CR2032 battery is simple to access and change. At times, it was difficult to locate the gauge onto the tire valve and see the readout. However, upon releasing it, the pressure reading remained displayed. Its recommended price is high compared with many of the other gauges on test, although we found one for half this cost on Amazon.

Blackline SWE310 – Best Budget Buy!

Score: 8/10 – Best Budget Buy!
Measurements: Psi, Bar, kPa, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +3.5%
Batteries: Cannot be replaced
Backlight: No
Torch: No
Price: £4.56. Buy now.

The cheapest of our digital tire pressure gauges on test, so if all you need is a no frills device, this may be the answer. There are no extras, such as a backlight, torch or tire tread depth gauge. However, the gauge does provide the full range of tire pressure measurements. On the downside, there’s no means of replacing the battery or batteries because it’s a sealed unit. That being said, we’ve been using the gauge shown here for three years and it has yet to fail.

The plastic construction of the gauge, particularly the part that fits over the Schrader valve, appears to be more reliable at providing a reading than many of the more expensive gauges we tested. Our lab tests showed this gauge to be one of the least accurate. However, we’re talking 0.9% less accurate than the best gauge on test. If you have a number of cars and want to carry a tire pressure gauge in each, this may be the most cost-effective solution.

Ring Automotive RTG7 – Recommended!

Score: 8/10 – Recommended!
Measurements: Psi, Bar, kPa, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +2.7%
Batteries: CR2032 x 2
Backlight: Yes
Torch: Yes
Price: £24.99. Buy now.

This is the only unit with an adjustable, 360° swivel-head. As a result, the angle that the gauge is fitted onto a valve can be altered, although we sometimes struggled to fit it without allowing air to escape. It’s the heaviest unit on test, weighing 168g (the lightest is the Accutire at 21g and the next heaviest is Sealey’s TSTPG11 at 73g), and the only one supplied in a small fabric carry case.

Ring’s gauge includes a useful memory function. This displays values for the front and rear tire pressures. The values are straightforward to set and the readout not only displays the tire pressure, but also whether the reading is low, high or OK. The tire pressure doesn’t need to be spot-on to get an OK. We tested a tire that was a mere 0.1psi lower than the value stored in the memory and the readout said it was OK.

Other features include a torch and a tread depth indicator. The readout is permanently backlit and the gauge is powered by two CR2032 batteries. These are accessed via a panel on the back and a single crosshead screw. The memory function was retained when we removed the batteries for a few seconds and refitted them. The tread depth indicator provides a range from 0.5-15.5mm. For tires that are close to the UK’s 1.6mm limit, the scale can be difficult to read, even if you’re being a little cautious at 2-3mm.

Sealey TSTPG11

Score: 7/10
Measurements: Psi, Bar, kPa, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +3%
Batteries: CR2032 x 2
Backlight: Yes
Torch: Yes
Price: £13.00. Buy now.

Similar in design to Draper’s gauge, but with the added bonus of a torch, backlight and a tire tread depth gauge, although the latter was quite stiff and awkward to operate, making it difficult to obtain an accurate reading if a tire was close to the UK legal limit of 1.6mm. The attachment that fits over the Schrader valve is manufactured from plastic or a similar composite. It was occasionally awkward to correctly locate, especially if a tire valve was damaged.

With a couple of small buttons to operate the light, switch the gauge on and off, and toggle between the different measurement scales, we needed our reading glasses to identify the symbols on them, but could guess by simply pressing them. A larger button in the center of the gauge is a useful bleed valve. It allows air to be let out of a tire if it has been over-inflated, while still monitoring its pressure on the readout (not explained in the instructions).

The two CR2032 batteries that power this gauge are quite fiddly to extract by hand, but easier with a small screwdriver. However, we did discover they should spring out when the cover is off and they were indeed launched into the air!

Draper 68474

Score: 7/10
Measurements: Psi, Bar, kPa, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +2.6%
Batteries: AG13 x 2 (3v)
Backlight: No
Torch: No
Price: £10.80. Buy now.

This is the only digital gauge on test that beeps when switched on and again when a reading has been taken. Draper’s gauge offers a wide range of readings, including the more modern kPa, which is used on a number of European vehicles including our Vauxhall Insignia and the latest Mercedes-Benzes. The chunky traditional watch-style batteries that power it are quite fiddly to extract with your finger, but straightforward to fit.

The attachment that fits over the Shrader valve appears to be made from plastic and was quite awkward at times to correctly locate and obtain a reading. Plus, the angle at which the gauge needs to be positioned was sometimes difficult to apply. However, the resounding beep at least indicated that a reading had been taken and could then be read by removing the gauge from the valve.

The gauge switches off automatically, but can also be switched off by holding down the ‘ON’ button. With no backlight or torch, it’s not particularly useful in low light, unless you have another source of illumination.

Laser 4886 Digital Tire Pressure Gauge

Measurements: Psi, Bar, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +3.4%
Batteries: LH44 x 2
Backlight: Yes
Torch: No
Price: £16.30. Buy now.

At first sight, this appears to be one of the better designs of handheld gauges, with a conical end to help locate it onto a tire valve. Some of our testers appreciated this. However, others found it awkward to position and see the readout. In addition, we all struggled to take a reading if a tire valve was damaged.

There’s one button on this gauge, which turns on the readout, changes the units of measurement and allows the gauge to be switched off (or it switches off automatically after 85 seconds), so it’s very straightforward to use and understand. The battery compartment is easy to access via a small cover and, once removed, a firm tap against the palm of your hand releases the two chunky LH44 watch batteries (which is better than them being loose).

The mechanical slider for measuring tire tread depths can be locked in the closed position to avoid the risk of it protruding and getting broken. The depth is a little awkward to read because the measurements are on the part that protrudes; for anything below 5mm, the slider fully retracts and becomes locked inside the body of the gauge.

PCL DTPG8

Score: 7/10
Measurements: Psi, Bar, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +2.7%
Batteries: AAA x 2
Backlight: Yes
Torch: No
Price: £71.50. Buy now.

Of all the gauges we tested, this one was the most reliable for providing a readout across a range of wheels and damaged tire valves. It’s easy to see why when you look at the attachment that fits onto the valve. It’s the type found in workshops and at service stations, so it’s built to withstand abuse. And it’s a double attachment, so it should cater for the most awkward angles. This is reflected in the price. The manufacturing cost of the aforementioned attachment is probably more than the selling price of many of the other gauges! What you pay in price, you get back in quality.

This gauge feels sturdy and all of the hose components can be replaced. Just like the other gauges with hose attachments, the readout resets to zero once the end of the hose has been released from the tire valve. But unlike the similar gauges from Sealey and Laser, PCL’s has no bleed valve. It’s a no-nonsense digital tire pressure gauge, but it does have a backlight, and is the only one on test powered by two AAA batteries. This is accessed via a back panel and a single crosshead screw.

Sealey TST/ PG981

Score: 6/10
Measurements: Psi, Bar, kPa, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +3%
Battery: CR2032
Backlight: No
Torch: No
Price: £30.95. Buy now.

With the exception of a red ‘ON’ button, Sealey’s gauge with hose attachment is exactly the same as the Laser 2961. Even when we opened up the back to access the CR2032 battery, the components inside and the method of renewing the battery were identical.

There are no instructions, but we figured out how to switch between different units of measurement by holding down the red button. When the readout started to flash, we could then repeatedly press the button to change the unit. Attaching the end of the hose onto a tire valve is straightforward. However, we sometimes struggled to get an accurate fit and avoid air loss. It’s useful to be able to press the bleed valve on the other end of the hose (next to the gauge) to allow air pressure to be released from an over inflated tire, while checking the readout.

This type of digital tire pressure gauge resets their readout when the end of the hose is released from the tire valve.

Laser 2961 Digital Tire Pressure Gauge

Score: 6/10
Measurements: Psi, Bar, kPa, Kg/cm2
Decimal places: 1-2
Accuracy: +3.1%
Battery: CR2032
Backlight: No
Torch: No
Price: £37.99. Buy now.

Virtually identical to the Sealey TST/PG981 gauge and with all the same functions. Even the instructions on the back of the packaging are similar. So, if your choice is narrowed down to these two models, shop around for the best price.

Laser’s gauge has a black button that operates all the functions. There are no instructions to show you how to switch between different units of measurement. Although, we discovered this by accident by holding down the button for a few seconds. Once the readout started to flash, we could repeatedly press the button to switch between the different scales. The hose and metal attachment are straightforward to use and fit onto a tire valve, but you have to accurately locate them to avoid air escaping.

The reading on the gauge resets itself once the end of the hose is removed. There’s a useful bleed valve, which enables it to remain attached to the tire valve and release air pressure if the tire is over-inflated.

There’s no backlight and no means of switching it off (it switches off automatically after 90 seconds), despite the instructions recommending holding down the ‘ON’ button.

It’s powered by a single CR2032 battery, accessed by undoing two crosshead screws on the back. Changing the battery is fiddly, requiring a small screwdriver.

Accutire Keyring Digital Tire Pressure Gauge

Score: 5/10
Measurements: Psi
Decimal places: 0
Batteries: Not replaceable
Backlight: No
Torch: No
Price: £8.56. Buy now.

If all you need is a Psi reading for tire pressures, this Accutire gauge from Demon Tweeks may be the answer. With no backlight or torch, and no means of renewing the batteries, it’s almost twice the price of the no-frills gauge from Rally Design, but the RD gauge offers the full range of pressure readings. At times, it proved awkward to locate onto some of the tire valves we tested it on, resulting in either no reading or air leaking out and still no reading being displayed. It is, however, the smallest gauge we tested, being the size of a typical car key-fob. On the plus side, it comes with a handy keyring.

How we tested each digital tire pressure gauge

There are many aspects of digital tire pressure gauges that we wanted to assess. Top of the list was accuracy. As a result, we considered a suitable test procedure and looked into making a manometer. This consists of a large, waterfilled, U-shaped tube that’s sealed at one end with a Schrader valve. We could have used this to calculate the air pressure at one end and see whether the digital tire pressure gauges were accurate in their measurements.

However, the size of the manometer to cater for the range of pressure we wanted to test made it unfeasible. Plus, we had no way of knowing whether it would be accurate. So, we consulted one of the manufacturers of our digital tire pressure gauges – PCL of Sheffield – to see if they had a digital manometer. They agreed to lend it to us to use for testing, but were not involved in the test themselves.

We conducted three tests per gauge at 30-40Psi. We found all of the gauges were between 2.6-3% accurate, and all of them over-read (see the accuracy rating for each gauge). However, our findings were based on the assumption that the digital manometer was accurate.

So, we broadened our testing to look at how easy each gauge was to use, what additional features they offered (eg, a light), their price and whether the batteries could be replaced. We also tested the gauges on a variety of wheels to see whether particular tire valves were more awkward than others to access.

How to buy the best digital tire pressure gauge

Accuracy is key here. All of the above products tested within 3% of accuracy, with the best being 2.6% out. You want a pressure gauge that displays correct information, and therefore opting for a product that is greater than 3% out can result in under or over-inflated tires, both of which could be dangerous.

Other key factors in a digital tire pressure gauge are whether batteries can be replaced, or charged. Those without replaceable batteries mean that at some point, you’ll need to replace the whole item. This tends to be only a factor with the cheapest products that are less than $/£10.

Other, advantageous factors include a built in light. Although this isn’t necessary, it could be a useful tool in the winter to ensure your tires are at an optimum pressure for adverse weather conditions.

Relevant content:

• Tires Advice, Tips & Tricks

The post Best Digital Tire Pressure Gauge In 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

Most standard car air filters on engines consist of a paper construction that’s designed to trap dirt. So, instead of that dirt being sucked into the engine and causing damage, it stays on the filter. Over time, that build-up of dirt restricts the airflow to the engine, effectively strangling performance. And it also doesn’t help fuel consumption. Replacing the air filter is the best answer. The following information provides a general overview of what’s involved.

How To Change a Car Air Filter

1. Locate the car engine air filter

Most air filters are contained inside a plastic housing and, there may be two of them, especially on V8 engines. If you own a Jaguar XKR for instance, the air filters are accessed through the arch trim for the front fenders!

Consequently, the air filter isn’t always so obvious to spot. If you can’t find it, look for a black plastic box that’s roughly 8-10 inches across. Unfortunately, there may be a few of them, so you could uncover anything from the fuse box to the battery. At least you’ll get to know the components in the engine bay.

Remove the entire housing

On some cars, the entire air filter housing needs to be removed. As a result, this enables it to be split open to extract and change the air filter. The housing may be attached by a couple of hoses and some bolts. Once removed, there could be several screws to undo to access the air filter.

Dropping an engine air filter

There are some peculiar locations for the air filter on particular vehicles. For example, the Alfa Romeo Giulietta (2014-2020), where on some engines, the air filter is removed from underneath the engine bay.

2. Undo the lid on the car air filter

The plastic air filter housing is usually sealed to avoid dirt from inside the engine bay getting sucked inside. Often, there’s a separate external air feed. However, there should be a lid to this housing, which can be released. The lid may be secured with metal spring clips or several screws. Typically, the spring clips may be awkward to release and any screws could be covered in rust. So, take your time with undoing or releasing anything and don’t lose your patience. Spray penetrating fluid over any rusty fastenings before trying to undo them.

Once the lid has been released, it probably won’t fall off to reveal the air filter. There may be a hose attached to it, so it won’t move too far. There may also be an electrical plug attached for a sensor such as the mass air flow (MAF). These may need to be detached to allow the lid to be fully removed. Alternatively, there may be just enough space to lift the lid and extract the old air filter.

3. Check the old air filter

Once you manage to extract the old air filter, take a close look at it to check over its condition. Separate any pleats (usually on the underside) to see how much dirt has been collected and ingrained. If it’s choked with dirt, it should be replaced. If you are in any doubt, change it.

4. Clean inside the housing

Before you replace the car air filter with a new one, or even refitting the old one, there’s some cleaning to do. Look inside the air filter housing (where the filter was sat) and check it’s clean. There may be dirt and dry leaves inside. If there is, try to pick or wipe them out. Alternatively, if you have a vacuum cleaner, suck the dirt out with it.

The dirt may extend beyond the air filter housing, so check any feed pipes to it as these could be blocked.

5. Replace the car air filter

If you are replacing an air filter, check the new one is the same shape and size as the old one. Compare the two side by side. Check all dimensions, particularly the depth.

6. Seal the air filter

When fitting an air filter into the housing, there are some points to note. If the air filter has a rubber seal around its edges, make sure the seal doesn’t hang over. If it does, the lid of the housing won’t fit correctly and the seal will get trapped. This may lead to an air leak, allowing dirt to bypass the filter.

7. Refit the air filter lid

Refitting the lid of the air filter housing can be finger-crunching. This is due to the fact that the metal spring clips can fall out or seem impossible to refit. Screws can refuse to line up and their heads may have rounded off. It’s essential to take your time. And the same goes for reattaching hoses and electrical plugs.

8. Check the car air filter for leaks

Once you’ve finished replacing an air filter, clear all your tools away, then start the engine. Listen around the air filter housing for air leaks. If you can hear air being sucked and it’s a noise that wasn’t there before, switch off the engine. Check all hoses and the lid to ensure they are fully fitted.

Relevant content: 

• Car Air Filter Guide
• Performance Car Air Filter Test

The post How To Replace a Car Air Filter appeared first on Fast Car.

Anyone over the age of 40 years-old will probably recall changing a set of spark plugs on classics. It took less than half an hour using nothing but a T-bar shaped spark plug wrench and a set of feeler gauges. Engines have since evolved, and most modern petrol engines have longer intervals between spark plug changes. This can sometimes be up to every 100,000 miles! Check out our car maintenance guide for when you should be changing items. Plus, there are usually a few components to remove before you can get to those spark plugs to change them.

In this guide, we’ll talk you through how to change your spark plugs and the tools you’ll need to complete the job.

Tools you’ll need to change your spark plugs

Before you start to delve under the bonnet and change those spark plugs, do a little research. Armed with a new set of spark plugs, make sure you have the correct-sized spark plug socket. A spark plug socket has a rubber insert inside, which helps with extracting an old spark plug. It grips the plug to reduce the risk of it falling out when extracting it. What invariably happens is the rubber bit gets pulled out of the socket and remains attached to the spark plug. Fortunately, there are ways around this, which we’ll discuss later. It is, however, wise to have the correct socket, which is usually 5/8in (16mm) or 13/16in (21mm). There’s also smaller spark plugs that need a 9/16in (14mm) socket.

That problematic rubber insert can be avoided by having a short length of rubber hose with an 8mm internal diameter. It can be used to extract a spark plug once it has been undone and initially fit a new one.

Feeler gauges are essential for any spark plugs with a single electrode (the prong at the top). Don’t assume a new spark plug is correctly gapped – it may have been knocked in transit.

Finally, a torque wrench is another important piece of equipment. Tightening the spark plugs to the recommended setting is critical for some engines. Take the three-cylinder petrol motor in the Peugeot 208. Sticking to the correct torque setting ensures the electrode is correctly positioned for optimum combustion.

Some people may argue that when tightening a new spark plug, if its washer is crushed, then that’s enough. In some cases that’s true, but only providing you have the experience to know how much is enough. We’ve seen spark plugs snap in two because they have been overtightened.

How to change spark plugs

1. Find the spark plugs

When you’re ready to replace the spark plugs, remove the components that are in the way. This may begin with an upper engine cover or even an air filter housing. Next, a bank of coil packs or individual coil packs may sit across the tops of the spark plugs. If so, disconnect their wiring, undo any mounting bolts and remove them.

Where HT leads are fitted on to the tops of the spark plugs, take care when releasing them. Old HT leads can become brittle and risk breaking up when pulling them off the top of a spark plug. Use long-nose pliers to carefully ease the HT lead off the spark plug. If by now, you can see the tops of the spark plugs, then you may think yourself lucky. Some cars require braces and soundproofing to be removed.

Many spark plugs are not so easy to access, often hidden inside the top of the cylinder head. You may need some extension bars to attach to the spark plug socket to reach them. Slacken the plug and try to extract it. If it falls out of the socket, use the fuel hose we mentioned.

2. New plug checks

Before you change your spark plugs, check the length of the old plug is the same, especially the length of the thread. If it is longer or shorter, this may mean the end of it gets hit by the piston. Or it could fail to combust the petrol fed into the cylinder.

It’s also important to check the electrode gap (single electrode plugs only) using feeler gauges. The recommended gap should be listed in your car’s workshop manual. An adjustment tool costs around $5 / £3 or more and reduces the risk of damaging the electrode.

3. Fit and tighten spark plugs

Fitting a new spark plug can be awkward if the rubber insert inside the spark plug socket becomes dislodged. As mentioned, start by fitting a new plug with a short length of rubber hose. Once the plug has been wound in a few threads, use the socket with the rubber insert removed.

If you are experienced with fitting spark plugs and can feel when the washer on it is being crushed, then you may want to rely on this method for correctly tightening a new one. Otherwise, a more reliable method involves using a torque wrench set to the correct value. It ensures consistency and avoids problems, such as a spark plug being too slack, resulting in a lack of compression. In such a case, the cylinder in question won’t fire efficiently, so it will be down on performance. Similarly, overtightening a spark plug risks stripping the thread in the cylinder head or snapping the spark plug.

Other common issues that can arise involve forgetting the order of the HT leads. This can result in the engine not running correctly (the wrong firing order). So, you may wish to tackle one spark plug at a time to avoid mixing anything up.

4. Run the engine

Once all the spark plugs have been changed and everything is refitted, start the engine to check they are all firing. Listen for an inconsistency in the smoothness of the running of the engine. If there’s a problem, check all connections before investigating further. A faulty new spark plug is rare, so it’s more likely a poor connection is to blame.

For more information, be sure to check out our complete guide to spark plugs.

The post How To Change Spark Plugs appeared first on Fast Car.

Tools for an oil change

There’s no point in getting stuck into changing the engine oil if you don’t have the right tools. Make sure you have a suitable container to catch the oil when it drains from the sump’s drain plug. If the oil has to be sucked through the dipstick tube, then a suction pump is required.

Most drain plugs can be undone with a wrench or socket, but some require a large Hex (Allen key) bit. And it helps to use a torque wrench to correctly tighten the drain plug to the correct amount.

Other oil changing tools you’ll need include a filter strap to undo a spin-on oil filter. There are lots of different types of filter straps. Most consist of a strap made of steel, fabric or a chain that’s wrapped around the filter to undo it.

For a plastic or metal filter housing, you’ll need a large socket or a special cup to undo it. Filter cups are available in sets.

Finally, we recommend having a clean funnel to carefully pour fresh oil into the engine.

What is an engine flush?

Engine flush products are a liquid that can be added to the engine for a number of reasons. The main aim of an engine flush product is to help remove carbon deposit build up, as well as to reduce future oil consumption. It essentially cleans the engine for you.

Adding an engine flush to the engine oil before draining it can help to loosen carbon deposits. Some flushes require the engine to be run for 15 minutes (but don’t drive the vehicle).

Before changing the engine’s oil, make sure the vehicle is on level ground. This helps to ensure all of the oil is drained from it. Check the vehicle won’t move, so chock the wheels, apply the handbrake and select first gear for a manual gearbox.

It’s important to ensure you can drain and collect the waste oil without spilling it everywhere. If you don’t have a ramp/lift or inspection pit, then the amount of ground clearance may be a problem. Drive-on ramps can help, but will only raise the front, so raise and support the rear with axle stands. Driving on to lengths of wood may provide sufficient ground clearance instead.

How often should you change the engine oil in your car?

This ultimately depends on how the car is being driven, and whether it’s a stock vehicle or not. For regular road users, the recommended interval between oil changes is every year or between 7,000 – 12,000 miles. For high performance cars, or those that are modified, we’d recommend shortening that interval to between 4,000 – 8,000 miles. Again, it all depends on how the car is being driven. For those that like to drive closer to the redline, we’d recommend changing closer to the 4,000/5,000 mark. Drivers that live slightly more cautiously, you can stretch the period to around 7,000 miles.

For lightly used track cars, we like to change our engine oil no more than every 3,000 miles. On track, car’s are driven towards their limit, and as such, tend to use more oil in the process. Therefore, the oil will heat up to extreme levels and then cool over and over again. If you drive regularly on track for long periods of time, we’d be looking to change the oil after every 2-3 track days. Race cars on the other hand should have its engine oil changed after every race to ensure reliability.

How To Do An Oil Change

1. Drain the oil

An undertray may need to be removed to be able to drain the engine oil. These are usually secured with screws or bolts, which are often rusty. Spraying over them with penetrating fluid first will help with undoing them.

Draining engine oil is a messy job, especially when the sump bolt is initially removed. Some sump bolts are a banjo design, which means the oil drains through it once it has been released.

Once the oil is draining, release the filler cap and the dipstick to help the oil flow out. If you intend to reuse the drain plug, clean any dirt from it. In most cases, it’s cost-effective to fit a new one.

As we mentioned, some vehicles don’t have a drain plug, but require the oil to be sucked out. Cars ranging from the Smart fortwo to the Jaguar XKR (first generation) require the engine oil to be sucked out. On the Smart fortwo, a length of tube attached to a suction pump needs to be inserted down the dipstick tube. On the Jaguar XKR, there’s a tube attachment inside the oil filler neck.

2. Change the oil filter

Whilst the oil is draining from the sump, replace the oil filter. Most are either a spin-on type or one contained in a canister (cartridge type). A spin-on type can be unscrewed using a filter strap, whereas a canister type requires the housing to be unscrewed. Some housings have a top that’s secured with several bolts, whereas others have a large hexagonal head. And some of those canisters have a small drain plug in the center to help remove the oil inside first.

If a spin-on filter is fitted vertically with the thread at the top, the new one can be pre-filled with fresh oil.

Spin-on oil filters must only be hand-tightened. Add a smear of clean engine oil to the face of the filter’s seal. This helps to prevent it dragging and tearing when fitting the new filter.

Where a canister is fitted with a cartridge filter, fit a new O-shaped seal around the thread of it. Apply a smear of fresh oil to it to also reduce the risk of it dragging. Extract the old filter and fit the new one the same way round – it may have to be clicked into position.

Refit the canister on to the engine. It should be tightened to a recommended torque setting according to the vehicle’s workshop manual. This is often around 25Nm and the value may be displayed on the end of the canister.

3. Fill back up with engine oil

Before fresh oil is poured into the engine, make sure the sump’s drain plug has been fitted and tightened to the recommended torque setting. This is important, especially for an aluminum sump where overtightening can strip the thread.

Pouring fresh oil into an engine can be awkward. A large funnel helps, but in many cases, there’s no quick method of pouring. Pour too quickly and an air lock may cause oil to flood out. Always pour the recommended quantity of oil for the engine, then leave it to settle. Afterwards, remove and wipe the dipstick, then reinsert and extract it to check the level. Look for the MIN and MAX markers to decide whether there’s sufficient oil inside the engine.

Some modern vehicles do not have a dipstick to check the oil level in the engine. Instead, menu options on the dashboard need to be selected to measure it. This may require the engine to be switched off for at least 15 minutes, but some need the engine running.

4. Start your engine

Running the engine for the first time after refreshing the engine oil can be a little worrying. Before doing this, double-check the drain plug and oil filter are tight. And confirm you’ve added enough fresh oil.

Upon starting the engine, any oil pressure warnings on the dashboard may take a second or two to go out. Once they have disappeared, leave the engine to run whilst looking around the vehicle for oil leaks. Next, switch off the engine and leave it for a few minutes. This will allow the oil to drain back into the sump. The oil level needs one final check because the level may have dropped if the new filter was empty when fitted. And dispose of the old engine oil at your local recycling center.

Relevant content:

• Engine Oil Guide
• Best Engine Oil in 2023
• Guide To Oils, Additives and Cleaners

The post How To Do An Oil Change appeared first on Fast Car.

This OBDLink MX+ model is their top-of-the-range scanner. It can work on an iPhone with iOS 9 or later, an Android phone (4.4 or later), a Windows 8 phone (or later model) and an Amazon Kindle Fire. There’s also lots of third-party software available to use with this scanner.

So can it delve deep into a car’s ECU? Let’s find out.

RRP: From $139.95 Buy / £129.95 Buy.

How I tested the OBDLink MX+

I had already tested the entry-level OBDLink CX [add link please Matt]. This top-of-the-range MX+ version promises more features through the free dedicated app. Plus, it can be used with a wide range of third-party apps, such as FORScan, BimmerCode, MotoScan, OBD Fusion and OBD JScan. I was prepared to be overwhelmed.

I also had a couple of cars to plug the OBDLink MX+ into. One of them, a 2006 Ford Focus, had a dodgy passenger window that wouldn’t wind up. Could it be recalibrated? Another, a 2005 Audi A3, had a parking sensor problem. Could the MX+ identify this?

Using the OBDLink MX+

What’s in the box?

The OPDLink MX+ is supplied in a small, rugged box that’s about three inches wide and long and a little over one inch deep. It even has a magnetic lock on its lid. Inside, the MX+ scanner is contained in a neat-looking zipped pouch, which can be stored inside a car. I also found a warranty card (three years) and a small user guide with clear instructions in English.

OBDLink is keen to show it values its customers. Inside the lid of the box, there’s a thank you message and email address for the support team. The warranty card states it’s three years long. Plus, there’s a 180-day money-back guarantee. The user manual asks for reviews if you like the product and suggests contacting OBDLink if you don’t. Plus, once you have registered MX+, an email is sent with more information on using it. There’s even a link to a YouTube video showing a customer using the MX+ with his Ford Mustang.

Downloading the OBDLink app

Using your phone, simply scan the QR code in the user guide and the app will install and open. A quick registration process takes less than a minute to complete. Then you’re ready to go and can choose any of the OBDLink products to connect to (the same app works with all of them).

Connecting app and OBDLink MX+ scanner

The user manual instructs you to start the engine, then plug in the OBDLink MX+ into the OBDII port. This had me worried. Most scanners need to be plugged in, the ignition switched on but the engine not started. I followed the instructions with my fingers crossed. It all worked fine and I opened the app. However, I did email the support team at OBDLink to check this, especially for using the Map function where the device needs to remain fitted. They quickly responded to confirm the device can remain connected whilst driving.

Connection was straightforward and because I was also testing the CX scanner, I could flip between the two. A small button on the front of the scanner helped to send a signal from it to connect to the app. It worked every time.

Using the app

With no instructions in the small user manual for using the app, it’s soon apparent why. It’s so utterly simple to use. The two main menu screens have seven simple options. The one I was most interested in was diagnostics. After choosing it, I was instructed to switch off the engine, but leave the ignition on. This I did without any fuss on several occasions. The diagnostics were quickly checked, but nothing was listed on the Audi A3 with its parking sensor problem. No EML had been raised, so perhaps it couldn’t be identified. Instead, I looked at the enhanced features to dig deeper. Still nothing.

The Dashboard feature is impressive. It displays live data readings for engine rpm, speed, coolant temperature and several others. Some of this data can be displayed as a graph, which helps to analyze readings and engine behavior. Combine this with the Map function and a journey can be analyzed to report on fuel consumption, speed and engine parameters. So you can work out if an engine is running too hot, using too much fuel or the car is being driven too fast.

OBDLink MX+ verdict

For $40 more than the entry-level CX, the top-of-the-range MX+ isn’t overly expensive. Its enhanced diagnostics may come in useful, along with its ability to communicate with CAN systems (SW-CAN and MS-CAN). Plus, it can be used with a wide range of third-party apps. And its live data and data logging features are impressive.

Be sure to check out our guide to the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners.

The post OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Scanner Review appeared first on Fast Car.

With a 2006 Ford Focus (petrol engine) to test out the vLinker FD+, what could we discover? We decided to try using it with a free version of FORScan downloaded on to a Windows-based laptop with Bluetooth connectivity. This free-to-download app is designed to be used with Ford, Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury cars.

RRP: From $49.99 Buy / £44.99 Buy.

Using the vLinker FD+

What’s in the box?

Supplied in a small box that’s almost five inches long, less than three inches wide and a little over one inch deep. The device is small, being the width and height of the OBDII port and two inches deep. So it’s awkward to unplug from the OBDII port.

An informative quick start guide is included, which has been poorly translated into English. If you can excuse the grammar, then it’s easy enough to understand.

Downloading the vLinker app

The quick start guide shows how to get started with the FORScan app. This can be downloaded and installed from a number of places, depending on what equipment you are using. Downloading and installing it on to a laptop took a matter of minutes.

Connecting app and vLinker FD+ scanner

With the device inserted into a car’s OBDII port, the ignition on and the app running, there’s an on-screen connect button to select to enable the two to communicate. The two are quickly paired and, in this case, FORScan starts to communicate and check the vehicle. In my case, I had Bluetooth switched off on my laptop. When FORScan failed to connect, I checked this through Windows and switched it on. FORScan then connected successfully and ran through some checks. It correctly identified the Ford Focus, including its engine and ran through several checks.

Using the app

FORScan is a very straightforward app to use, especially on a PC or laptop, but it does require some knowledge. The data that is displayed, especially for connecting to the vLinker FD+, takes a little time to understand. However, it’s not too complicated and clearly shows what is happening. And it also helps if problems are discovered. In my case, a fault relating to the alternator and charge circuit was raised. The app recommended running a charging system diagnostic to check it. However, it also stated that the EML had not been activated for this fault.

Other useful features found in this app include a dashboard for live data and also an oscilloscope reading. The oscilloscope is more like a graph and can help with values relating to intake air temperature, mass airflow (MAF) and throttle position.

vLinker FD+ verdict

The vLinker FD+ is a straightforward Bluetooth scanner that works with a range of third-party apps. And you can choose to use it with several apps. However, not all are completely free and some have upgrades or add-ons to purchase. It’s useful for identifying faults and looking for them, even if the EML is off. Plus, the range of live data that can be displayed helps with monitoring and checking systems on a car to further diagnose issues.

RRP: From $49.99 Buy / £44.99 Buy.

We pitted 7 of the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners against each other in a mega test. Find out which one the group test in our Best Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner guide.

The post vLinker FD+ Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Review appeared first on Fast Car.

I had a 2005 Audi A3 and 2006 Ford Focus ready and waiting to communicate with the UniCarScan UCSI-2100. Would I be able to look for faults, read live data and test equipment?

RRP: From $79.99 Buy / £54 Buy

Using the UniCarScan UCSI-2100

What’s in the box?

The UniCarScan UCSI-2100 comes in a small, durable box that’s approximately four inches wide long, less than three inches wide and a little over one inch deep. The device is quite small, being the width of the OBDII port and a little over two inches deep. Fortunately, the sides of it are ribbed, which makes it easier to pull out of the OBDII port.

An informative user manual is included, which helps with downloading and installing the app on to a phone, tablet or PC/laptop.

Downloading the app

The user manual states that one of the Android apps that can be used is called UniCarScan, but this cannot be found in the Google Play Store. Luckily, six other apps are also recommended, and I chose ScanMaster. It took a matter of minutes to download and install.

Connecting app and UniCarScan UCSI-211 scanner

After inserting the device into a car’s OBDII port, switching on the ignition and launching the app, the user manual provides some guidance. However, it’s all very straightforward. There’s a four-digit password to enter, which is listed in the user manual. Pairing the device to the phone is then straightforward for anyone used to doing this with other Bluetooth-enabled equipment.

Using the app

This device works with several BMW-dedicated apps (Android and iOS). There are recommended apps for other makes of vehicle. Although these are generic apps, the one I tested, ScanMaster, is WGSoft’s own and worked on the Audi A3 test car. It retrieved the car’s VIN and looked for stored fault codes, but didn’t test any equipment. This car had a known parking sensor fault, but this wasn’t identified.

Other features in the ScanMaster app that proved useful included live data. This can help to show values such as vehicle speed, engine rpm and temperatures to help identify an overheating issue, for instance. Typical of a free app, some values are only available with a paid version.

UniCarScan UCSI-211 verdict

As an entry-level Bluetooth scanner, buying the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 and using the free version of ScanMaster is all you need to check for logged fault codes. In my case, it failed to identify an existing parking sensor fault. However, perhaps another app or a paid extra would have helped with more diagnostics.

Check out which product won our best Bluetooth OBD2 scanner. 

The post UniCarScan UCSI-2100 OBD2 Scanner Review appeared first on Fast Car.

How I tested the OBDLink CX Bluetooth scanner

I had a couple of cars ready and waiting to plug the OBDLink CX into their OBDII ports. On one of the cars, a 2005 Audi A3 Sportback, I knew there was an issue with a parking sensor. Would the Bluetooth scanner find it? And on another, a 2006 Ford Focus, the passenger window would wind down, but not back up. Was there a calibration issue the OBDLink CX could fix?

I was also interested in looking at live data. This can help to diagnose problems by looking at the behavior of the engine.

RRP: From $79.99 Buy  or £78 Buy.

Using the OBDLink CX

What’s in the box?

The OPBDLink CX is supplied in a small durable box that’s roughly three inches wide and long and a little over one inch deep. It even has a magnetic lock on its lid. Inside, I found a warranty card (three years), a small user guide with clear instructions in English and the device. OBDLink is clearly keen to show it values its customers. Inside the lid of the box, there’s a thank you message and email address for the support team. The aforementioned warranty card clearly states it’s three years long, but there’s also a 180-day money-back guarantee. The user manual asks you to leave reviews if you like the product. And provides links if you don’t.

Downloading the app

This is one of the quickest and easiest app installs I’ve seen. After scanning a QR code in the user manual using my phone, the 25MB dedicated app was quickly installed and opened. Not only that, but the user manual couldn’t have made it simpler. Downloading was step 1 of 5. It was hard to go wrong.

Connecting app and OBDLink CX scanner

Worryingly, the user manual explains to start the engine, then plug in the OBDLink CX into the OBDII port. Anyone used to communicating with a car’s ECU will know this isn’t the norm. Usually, the device is plugged into the OBDII port, then the ignition is switched on, but the engine not run. I realized I had to follow the instructions to test them out. But what if it all went wrong? It didn’t. Instead, I then launched the OBDLink app and pressed Connect on the main menu screen.

Connecting the app and scanner took a couple of attempts, but it was soon established. Plus, that connection remained reliable throughout testing.

Using the app

There are no instructions in the small user manual for using the app and I can see why. It’s so simple to use. The main menu screen has some clearly labelled options.

I was amazed to see that the Diagnostics feature quickly revealed no fault codes. Perhaps it had already scanned everything on the car. However, it didn’t pick up the parking sensor fault, which hadn’t raised the EML. Maybe the Diagnostic feature only lists faults where the EML is illuminated.

I soon discovered some features require an in-app purchase.

I liked the Dashboard feature, which provided live data readouts of engine rpm, speed, coolant temperature and several others. Some of this data can be displayed as a graph, which helps to analyze readings and engine behavior.

One feature that is really impressive is the Map function. This enables a car journey to be logged, showing where it goes and how it performs.

OBDLink has developed its Bluetooth scanners to be compatible with other third-party apps, such as Torque, Carista and BimmerCode. Some of these are entirely free to use, whereas others require in-app purchases. I was, however, impressed with the versatility of the standard app, which can run on an iPhone with iOS 9 or later or an Android phone with version 4.4 or later. The app can even run on a Windows phone (version 8), and an Amazon Kindle Fire!

OBDLink CX verdict

For an introduction into engine diagnostics and analysis, the OBDLink CX is a budget-priced option. Its diagnostic tools are limited, but perhaps sufficient for a novice. And the dashboard, map and live data features provide an overview of how a car is performing.

Be sure to check out the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners in 2023.

The post OBDLink CX Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Review appeared first on Fast Car.

A mobile phone is required to download and install these apps. For iPhones, iOS 15 or later is required. Android phones need version 6 or later.

OBDeleven’s apps can delve deeper than many generic apps. Their website lists several manufacturers ranging from BMW to Lamborghini that it caters for. So will it make a difference? Let’s take a look on a 2005 Audi A3 with a parking sensor problem.

RRP: $88.34 Buy /£69.95 Buy.

Using the OBDeleven OBD2 Scanner

What’s in the box?

The OBDeleven is supplied in a small, rugged box that’s less than three inches wide and long and a little over one inch deep. The device is very small, being the width of the OBDII port and a little over one inch deep. Consequently, the keyring attachment comes in useful if you don’t intend to keep it in the box. It also potentially helps with pulling the device out of the OBDII port because once inserted, it’s awkward to remove.

There’s a small instruction leaflet supplied with the OBDeleven, which simply displays a QR code for scanning the user manual. Considering you need a smartphone to download an app, this seems sensible. However, the QR code directs you to the support section of the OBDeleven website, so you still have to navigate through to the user manual.

Downloading the app

Searching for OBDeleven in the Google Play or Apple App Store is required to find the correct app. It’s quick to download and install, but requires registration and email verification. Then you are ready to start.

Using your phone, simply scan the QR code in the user guide and the app will install and open. A quick registration process takes less than a minute to complete. Then you’re ready to go.

Connecting app and scanner

The user manual instructs you to plug in the OBDeleven device into the OBDII port and either switch on the ignition or start the engine. It then explained how to create an account using an email address or a Facebook or Apple ID account. It was all a little confusing, but made sense when I simply opened the OBDeleven app on my phone. I had to create a six-digit PIN to communicate with the device, and it all ran smoothly. Within minutes, the app and OBDeleven device were communicating with each other.

Using the app

The OBDeleven app struggled to identify the 2005 Audi A3 I had plugged the device into. Instead, I had to enter the car’s 17-digit VIN. A more dedicated VAG app was automatically downloaded and opened to provide a deeper scan of the car’s systems. I later connected the device to a 2006 Ford Focus, which was quickly recognized, but provided a much more superficial scan. Scanning the Audi’s systems took a lot longer (around five minutes) and covered 20 different systems (driver’s door, ABS, engine). It successfully identified the problem with the parking sensors. It correctly listed a relevant fault code for the problem and directed me to a Google search for further information. I could even email a summary of the fault – useful for sending to someone else for advice.

The free app included with the OBDeleven device is simple to use, involving a scan of the car’s systems. If you want anything else, such as testing equipment then a Pro package or credits need to be purchased. This all sounds a little confusing, but I managed to use OBDeleven’s online chat service to double-check my facts and it was very helpful.

OBDeleven OBD2 scanner verdict

As a diagnostic scanner, the OBDeleven does the job, and for some cars can provide a comprehensive assessment. If you want more, you have to pay for it. Otherwise, it’s a useful scanner should you need it and comes with a two-year warranty.

To find out how it faired in our OBD2 scanner test, be sure to visit our guide to the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners.

The post OBDeleven OBD2 Scanner Review appeared first on Fast Car.

When modifying – or simply maintaining – your car, you end up collecting a variety of tools. So, most of us have at least one drawer rammed full of old screwdrivers, but is it better to just have one good set? We think so, and have been testing a wide range of them for several months. We’ve found out about magnetic tips, hammer thru’ shafts and the difference between Phillips (PH) and Pozidriv (PZ).

PH Originated in 1934 as an improvement over the slotted flatblade design. It has a crosshead design with four radial slots to achieve a better grip and includes a range of sizes. PZ, meanwhile, first appeared in 1959 as an improvement over the Phillips. It features eight radial slots in the head of a screw instead of four, and a range of sizes.

Anyway, that’s enough with the history lessons. Let’s get into it – here’s the best screwdriver sets that you can buy in 2024.

Best Screwdriver Sets

Clarke 44-piece hammer through screwdriver and bit set

Score: 18/20
Award: Fast Car Best Buy

A comprehensive set of 17 screwdrivers, 10 hex and Torx bits (with a separate screwdriver) and 16 hex/Allen keys. Some of the tools feel a bit like overkill, especially the hex/Allen keys supplied in metric and imperial sizes.

We like the plastic holder that can stand on a shelf or workbench, or you could even secure it to a wall. The chrome vanadium shafts range in length from 75mm to 150mm (excluding the length of the handle). The magnetic tips cover flatblade/slotted widths from 3mm to 8mm, Phillips from PH0 to PH3, Pozidriv from PZ0 to PZ3 and Torx from T27 to T40. Disappointingly, there are no stubbies. The Torx bits cover from T7 to T20, whilst the hex bits are from 3mm to 6mm.

Each screwdriver handle has a soft-grip feel to it, made from plastic and rubber, with a hammer thru’ end.  There are cheaper and similar screwdriver sets from Clarke and other manufacturers. However, check for features such as hammer thru’, Torx screwdrivers and magnetic tips.

Draper nine-piece Cabinet Pattern Screwdriver Set

Score: 17/20
Award: Best Value

A solid set of screwdrivers that caters for the three popular types of fastening. The wipe-clean PVC-coated handles provide a good level of grip and all have clear labels. Plus, the screwdrivers are color-coded, so you can quickly learn that orange is for flatblade, blue is for Phillips and green is for Pozidriv.

Each group has three screwdrivers, but the flatblades having the longest shaft at 150mm (the rest are 100mm max). Flatblade/slotted widths range from 3.2mm to 8mm, and the PH and PZ sizes are from 0 to 2. The labelling on the smallest screwdrivers is quite small, so reading glasses or a magnifying glass may be required.

We like the tempered chrome vanadium round steel shafts. The four largest screwdrivers have a hexagonal bolster to fit an 8mm-10mm open-ended spanner for extra leverage.

A good range of screwdrivers with quality handles. We also like the carrycase, which has a clear plastic cover and a sliding lock. And the lifetime warranty. A couple of stubbies would have completed the collection.

Sealey 13-piece hammer thru’ screwdriver set

Score: 16/20
Award: Recommended

If you need a set of Phillips and flatblade/slotted screwdrivers, then this 13-piece set from Sealey’s Siegen range is definitely worth a look. Note however, there are no Pozidriv (PZ) tips, only PH0 to PH3 and slotted widths from 3mm to 8mm wide, with shaft lengths from 38mm for the stubbies up to 200mm.

Sealey uses chrome vanadium steel (with a satin finish) to make each hammer thru’ shaft, and they all feature shot-blasted and magnetized tips. The color-coded (red for flatblade and blue for PH) soft-grip handles have labels to indicate the length of shaft, as well as the size and type of tip. As such, they’re easy to identify. We did note, however, that the rubberized parts of the handle may need a thorough scrub to remove traces of dirt.

We liked the rounded flat ends (opposite end to the tip) for hitting with a hammer, but the design of these screwdrivers would’ve been even better if they featured a Hexagonal bolster to fit an open-ended spanner. That said, the lifetime guarantee comes as nice reassurance. Overall, should you have a spare drawer ready and waiting to store these 13 screwdrivers (Sealey doesn’t provide a carrycase with these), then they are worth considering.

Draper 16-piece Engineer’s screwdriver set

Score: 16/20

Award: Recommended

The best range of flatblade/slotted, Phillips and Pozidriv sizes without having to fill in the gaps with bits. These are more expensive than most of the other sets of screwdrivers, but come with a lifetime warranty and a sturdy feel to each screwdriver.

Typical of most of the sets we’ve tested, this one is biased towards flatblades (7 out of 16 are flatblades). These range in tip width from 3.2mm to 8mm and in shaft length from 75mm to 200mm. The stubbies have a shaft length of 38mm.

The Phillips tips range from PH1 to PH3 and also include a stubby with a PH2. The Pozidrivs are from PZ0 to PZ3 and include a PZ2 stubby.

Whilst the range of screwdrivers is impressive, their performance is also very good. Draper constructs the shafts from SVCM steel with a satin chrome plating, which it then complements nicely with a sand-blasted tip. The larger screwdrivers have a hexagonal bolster to enable you to use an open-ended spanner (8-10mm) for extra leverage.

Heavy-duty polypropylene serves as the basis of the color-coded handles (red for slotted, green for PZ and blue for PH). As a result, they have a soft-grip feel. However, the labelling on each handle for length of shaft and type of tip is white, meaning that you can accidentally smother them in dirt quite easily. On the plus side, you can wipe clean the whole surface of the handle with relative ease.

Clarke 10-piece Pro Screwdriver set

Score: 16/20

Supplied in an impressive-looking oval-shaped plastic carrycase with a see-through panel so that you know what’s inside. The two plastic clips that lock the carrycase are flimsy and look like they could snap off. Inside, there’s a neat arrangement of slotted (flatblade) and Phillips (PH) screwdrivers, but no Pozidriv screwdrivers. Shaft length is from stubby to 150mm long and covers slotted from 3mm- 8mm wide and PH sizes 0-3. These sizes are clearly displayed on the handle of each screwdriver. Each screwdriver clicks into position inside the plastic case, so they shouldn’t rattle around when being transported.

Apart from the two smallest screwdrivers, all the rest have a hexagon-shaped top, so a 11mm or 13mm spanner or socket can be fitted over it for greater leverage.

Each handle is made from plastic, but includes four lengths of dimpled rubber to help improve grip. The shaft of each screwdriver is made from S2 tempered steel along with the tips.

We like the feel of these screwdrivers, especially with the soft-grip style handles. However, we can see them being difficult to clean if they get covered in oil and dirt.

Not advertised as being a hammer thru’ type, the hexagonal head on eight of them is part of the shaft. So, they could be hit with a hammer, although that could damage it and perhaps invalidate the lifetime warranty.

Sealey 21-piece screwdriver set

PART NUMBER: S0923

SCORE: 15/20

This 21-piece screwdriver set includes six colour-coded flatblade/slotted, Phillips and Pozidriv screwdrivers, along with an assortment of bits. There are only a couple of PH,  PZ and flatblade screwdrivers (six in total). Those bits are a confusing mixture. For instance, the hex/Allen key bits range from 2mm to 6mm (seven bits in total). However, there are only two flatblades/slotted bits (4mm and 5mm). And only a couple of large PH3 and PZ3 bits, plus three Torx bits from T15 to T25. A token gesture? Perhaps these bits could have been replaced with a couple of stubby screwdrivers.

If you ignore the bits, then the screwdrivers are good with their rounded chrome vanadium shafts and magnetised tips. The soft-grip handles are clearly labelled with size and type of tip and length of the shaft (75mm-150mm). They may take a little scrubbing to remove ingrained dirt and oil, but you can’t have it all. We like the hanging hole near the top of each screwdriver.

Supplied in a plastic carrycase with a clear top that’s locked with two flimsy-looking catches. A good value for money screwdriver set that carries the Siegen quality approval and a lifetime guarantee.

Sealey 33-piece GripMAX screwdriver and bit set

Score: 14/20

A slightly confusing mixture of screwdrivers that manages to cover all the popular sizes in a roundabout way. There are 11 screwdrivers, which mainly have flatblade/slotted tips (five of them, 3-8mm-wide tips). The Phillips (PH) and Pozidriv (PZ) only cover sizes 1-2, but include a size 2 for a stubby. Those missing PH and PZ sizes are catered for with bits and a couple of screwdriver bit holders. The bits cover PH0 to PH3 and the same for PZ. They also include flatblade/slotted sizes from 3mm to 6mm, five Torx bits from T10 to T30 and three hex bits from 3mm to 6mm. Whilst the larger PH3 and PZ3 sizes have been covered by the range of bits, dedicated screwdrivers would be better. However, we like the screwdrivers’ magnetised shot-blasted tips and round chrome vanadium steel shafts with a satin finish.

Each screwdriver has a polypropylene and TPV rubber soft-grip handle with clear labelling at the end (type and size). The rubbery soft-grip texture of the handle may need to be thoroughly scrubbed should it get really filthy.

A hexagonal bolster for fitting an open-ended spanner would be useful, but we like the hanging holes in the ends of the handles. A good set of screwdrivers with a lifetime guarantee, providing you can manage with bits for PH3 and PZ3.

Draper Expert eight-piece heavy-duty soft-grip screwdriver set

Score: 14/20

A no-nonsense set of eight screwdrivers that promise better torsional properties than chrome vanadium because they have SVCM+ steel shafts. SVCM+ is a type of shock-resistant steel and the + symbol means it has been tempered.

There’s a bias of flatblade/slotted screwdrivers versus Phillips (called cross slot by Draper) and Pozidriv (PZ). There are four flatblade/slotted screwdrivers ranging in width from 3mm to 8mm (and in shaft length from 75mm-150mm). There are only two cross slot screwdrivers (PH1 and PH2, 75mm and 100mm). And only two Pozidrivs of the same specifications.

We like the quality and feel of the screwdrivers, particularly the soft-grip handles with useful labelling on the ends of each one. The handles promise to be solvent-resistant and they are easy to wipe clean. The black rubberised sections may need more of a scrub, but that’s the price you pay for a better grip. We like the holes at the top of each handle, enabling each screwdriver to be hung on a hook. And we’re pleased to see that these screwdrivers are supplied with a lifetime warranty.

As a replacement for your old screwdrivers, it needs a couple of stubbies and an extra PH or PZ.

Laser six-piece pound thru’ screwdriver set

Score: 13/20

A promising-looking set of screwdrivers with hammer thru’ for impact use and S2 steel octagonal shafts (75-125mm). Confusingly, there are only two screwdrivers to cater for crosshead fastenings and they are only Pozidriv PZ1 and PZ2. There are no Phillips PH tips. But there are four flatblade/slotted tips, ranging from 3.5mm wide to 6.5mm. Substituting two of the flatblade/slotted screwdrivers for Phillips would have been better.

We like the flat tops of each screwdriver that provide a large area for hitting it with a hammer. We also like the clear labelling on the rubberised handle of each screwdriver, displayed on a wipe-clean plastic surface.

These screwdrivers won’t replace your existing collection, but they are a useful and robust addition.

The post Best Screwdriver Set for 2024 appeared first on Fast Car.

A car radiator is an essential component to help maintain the temperature of the engine. Most of them are mounted in the front of the engine bay. Consequently, they can get damaged by road debris and may eventually leak. Some parts of the radiator may corrode and then leak, so eventually it will be time to replace the radiator. Fitting a new radiator may be the best answer, so check out our guide to the best car radiators. That being said, some radiator specialists can re-core an old one. This may be the only solution if a new radiator isn’t available.

How to tell your car radiator needs changing

Look across the surface of the radiator for signs of damage. You probably won’t be able to inspect all of the radiator (look through the front grille or bumper). From what you can see of it, look for crushed cooling fins and coolant residue. Any residue may indicate the radiator is leaking.

If the radiator is blocked with silt, this problem will be difficult to identify. It could mean the engine runs hot or overheats. Removing the radiator’s top and bottom hoses, then attaching a hosepipe to the top will help. If the radiator is choked with silt, the hosepipe water will struggle to run out.

1. Drain the coolant from the radiator

The first job in changing the radiator is to drain the coolant. This will make it easier to remove the radiator and save you getting wet. If you want to reuse the coolant, it needs to be collected in a clean container. In all cases, collect it and do not pour it down a drain. It must be disposed of safely at your local recycling center because it contains harmful chemicals.

Some radiators have a drain tap along the bottom. Fitting a hose to the tap, as shown here, will help with directing the coolant into a container. Release the radiator pressure cap and any other caps to help with draining.

If no drain tap can be found, undo the lower hose attached to the radiator. Carefully ease it off and only do this when the engine is cold. The coolant will surge out, so have a large container ready to collect the fluid.

2. Detach all hoses from car radiator

Once the coolant from the radiator has been drained, look for any remaining hoses that are still attached to it. Detach all of them. In some cases, it may be easier to detach a hose from elsewhere, leaving it connected to the radiator. Access to hose clamps may be difficult, so work out the easiest way to help remove the radiator.

3. Detach electrical plugs

If an electric fan is secured to the radiator, it may be easier to remove them together. They can then be separated afterwards and the fan transferred to the new radiator. At this stage, look for any electrical wiring routed to the electric fan. Disconnect any electrical plugs to ensure the fan and radiator can be removed.

4. Undo the car radiator mounts

Most car radiators are secured with upper and lower mounts. These can be quite simple to detach. And in some cases, the lower mounts don’t need to be disturbed because the radiator sits in them. So, providing the radiator can be lifted up and out of the engine bay, the lower mounts can remain in position.

Upper radiator mounts may need to be undone and removed. They are often secured to something solid, such as the slam panel.

Look around the radiator to see how it’s secured. Try to move it to find out what needs to be undone to be able to lift it out.

Other objects may obstruct removal of the radiator. For instance, there may be a piece of trim, part of the induction system or even an intercooler. In some cases, the front bumper may need to be removed to provide space to extract the radiator.

5. Remove the old car radiator

When you are confident the old radiator can be removed, lift it out slowly. Check around it to ensure you don’t damage anything. It may not matter so much to damage the radiator, but you don’t want to break anything else. Some coolant may leak out when removing the radiator, so have a container ready. Hoses may need to be fully released once the radiator has been lifted out.

6. Transfer parts to the new car radiator

If you have the new radiator ready to fit, check it’s the same size and shape as the old one. Transfer any parts from the old radiator to the new one. This may include the electric cooling fan if it’s secured to the radiator – check the fan can spin freely after fitting.

It may help to fit some of the cooling hoses attached to the radiator. This will certainly help if they are awkward to access when the radiator is fitted.

7. Fit the new car radiator

Carefully maneuver the new radiator into the engine bay or wherever it should be fitted. Avoid damaging the cooling fins on objects nearby. The fins can easily get crushed, so it may help to fit a sheet of cardboard across them. However, make sure you can extract that cardboard once the radiator is fitted.

8. Refit the hoses

It may help to have a little movement in the radiator to attach any hoses, so don’t refit any mounts yet. Instead, make sure all hoses and any electrical plugs for the cooling fan can be connected. Then refit the radiator mounts and anything else.

9. Refill coolant in car radiator

Finally, refill the engine coolant and bleed the system. And that’s how to change a car radiator. This can be quite an involved job, so it may help to read our separate guide on How To Bleed a Car Radiator.

The post How To Change a Car Radiator appeared first on Fast Car.

It was once known as the fanbelt but is now more commonly called an auxiliary drivebelt or serpentine belt. This rubber belt that often has either jagged teeth or ribs drives a number of pumps and other components. Examples include the water pump, the A/C compressor, the power steering pump and the generator. All of these components have differing demands, which puts a greater strain on the belt that drives them. For instance, if the vehicle battery’s voltage is low, the generator needs to work harder to recharge it. In this guide, we’ll take your through another car maintenance trick that you should have under your belt.

How often should you change an auxiliary drivebelt?

The service or maintenance schedule for some cars stipulates a specific interval for replacing the drivebelt(s). It may be every eight years or every 100,000 miles for example. That doesn’t mean to say it could need changing sooner. And it’s important to inspect it at least once a year when servicing the vehicle.

How to inspect a drivebelt

A visual inspection of the drivebelt is a good starting point. Look at the inside edge of it, which may have ribs or jagged teeth. See if there are any cracks across the ribs or teeth, which is the first indication the belt is starting to deteriorate. Look along the outer edges of the belt for fraying, which can mean two things. First, the belt is starting to break up. Second, the belt may be rubbing against something to cause it to fray. In both cases, the belt should be replaced, but it will also help to see if it’s catching something.

To do this, manually turn the engine clockwise (do not run the engine) via the crankshaft pulley bolt. Whilst doing this, look at how the drivebelt rotates to see if it catches anything. This will also help to spot a misaligned pulley, which may be the cause of the fraying. Some pulleys can easily get bent and damaged if they are levered off with pry bars.

How tight should an auxiliary drivebelt be?

As a general rule, you should be able to quarter turn a drivebelt, which is sufficient tension for it. Any less and it’s often too tight, which could put a greater strain on the bearings inside the generator. And it could cause a similar problem for the A/C compressor, water pump and power steering pump. If the belt is too slack, it may squeal and could slip, meaning whatever it drives may not work as well. This may mean an engine overheats if the water pump cannot push the coolant around. For a generator, the battery may not be fully recharged.

How to adjust the tension in a belt

Some drivebelts use a spring-loaded automatic tensioner, so there’s no way of adjusting it. In such cases, if the belt is too tight or too slack, the wrong belt may have been fitted. Or there could be a problem with the tensioner.

If a drivebelt’s tension is manually adjusted, it may be via an adjuster thread with locking nuts. This can take some working out. The mounting bolts for a component such as the generator or power steering pump may need to be slackened first. This will allow it to be moved via the adjuster thread to alter the tension in the belt. In some cases, simply moving this component will change the tension in the belt.

How to remove an old auxiliary drivebelt

Before you remove the old drivebelt, take a photo of how it’s fitted. This will help with fitting the new one.

Tempting as it may be to cut through an old drivebelt to remove it, don’t. Instead, it’s important to slacken it to ensure you can fit the new one and adjust its tension. Where an automatic tensioner is fitted, turn it to take the tension off the belt. This is often in a clockwise direction. You may need to use a spanner to adjust it and, in some cases, can lock it with a pin. Once the belt is slack, carefully remove it. Avoid trapping your fingers.

Where a manual tensioner is fitted, adjust it to slacken the belt, then remove it by hand.

Check your new auxiliary drivebelt first before you change it

Before fitting the new drivebelt, check it’s the same specification, width and length as the old one. There may be a code printed on it, such as 4PK850, which means the belt has four ribs and is 850mm long. There may also be a part number displayed. However, it’s also worthwhile comparing both belts to check they are roughly the same. An old belt can stretch over time, so it may be slightly longer by a fraction of an inch.

Fitting the new auxiliary drivebelt

Look for any markings on the new belt to indicate which way round it should be fitted. Most engines, except for early Honda VTECs, rotate clockwise. It may take a few attempts to work out the best way to fit it. For instance, starting at the crankshaft pulley may be easier, or in some cases, finishing at this pulley. This can be quite awkward, especially if you have to hold the automatic tensioner in its slackest position.

If the tensioner is fully slackened, but the belt still won’t go on, then you may have to wind it on. This involves turning the crankshaft pulley and pushing the belt over it. New belts can seem to be too tight to fit, so this method can help.

Adjust and test

Where a belt is manually tensioned, adjust it to our recommended quarter turn test. Next, manually rotate the engine via the crankshaft pulley to check the belt doesn’t slip off. If you’re satisfied, refit any remaining parts, then run the engine to check the belt doesn’t squeal or slip off. For belts that are manually adjusted, check its tension periodically and adjust if necessary.

And that’s how to change an auxiliary drivebelt. For more information on engine belts, check out our guides:

• Serpentine Belt Explained
• Engine Belts Explained

The post How To Change An Auxiliary Drivebelt appeared first on Fast Car.

Some cars have an in-tank fuel filter that’s fitted for the life of the vehicle. However, many still have a replaceable fuel filter that should be changed at a specific service interval. In some cases, it should be replaced every year, whereas in others it’s every two or more years.

The work involved in replacing the fuel filter varies between different cars. The following information summarizes what’s generally required to do the job, but it may be different on your car.

Buy the right fuel filter for your car

Before you begin removing the fuel filter, make sure your new one is the correct type. If possible, compare it with the existing one that’s fitted – if you can see it. Make sure the new one has the same number of fuel hose/pipe connections. And if there are any electrical plug connections, make sure these are present too. Some fuel filters are screwed into a housing, so it’s important to check the fuel filter is the correct diameter. Others sit inside a mounting bracket, so the size of the new one is also important.

Find the fuel filter on your car

It may sound ridiculous, but some fuel filters are not that easy to find. On the diesel-engined third-generation Kia Sportage, the fuel filter is in the rear corner of the engine bay. The only trouble is the battery and ECU are in the way. So, the battery has to be removed and the ECU moved aside.

On the Mk2 Mazda Miata (MX-5), the fuel filter is under the vehicle, concealed by a plastic cover (see photo).

Release the pressure

The fuel may still be under pressure inside the fuel lines and the filter, so it’s important to release it. If it isn’t released, fuel could squirt out into your eyes. It could also contaminate components. And if it’s petrol, it could be a fire risk.

For some vehicles, disconnect a specific fuse and switch on the ignition to release the pressure. In other cases, a fuel hose has to be carefully detached to allow the pressurized fuel to escape.

If a fuel filter has a drain, this needs to be undone first to remove the excess fuel. This also helps with removing the filter because less fuel will run down your arms.

Undo the mounting bracket

If the fuel filter is secured inside a cage or mount, it may help to release it first. This may help to access some of the connections to it, such as the fuel lines and any electrical plugs.

Detach electrical plugs

If any electrical plugs are attached to the fuel filter or its housing, disconnect them. The plugs often need pinching in a particular place to help release them. Special tools like this EWK kit help release plastic connector plugs, which make this job easier to do.

Some car fuel filters have a water drain fitted at the base, which may include an electrical connector plug. This often gets missed, resulting in the wiring becoming overstretched and damaged when replacing the fuel filter.

Note the fuel connections

It’s important to remember where each fuel hose is connected on the fuel filter. They must not get mixed up because the engine won’t run. Take a photo of where they are fitted, or paint-mark them. Next, release each one. They may be secured with special hose clips. Some have a push-fit connection that requires the sides to be pinched to release the hose.

Quick-access fuel filters

Some fuel filters are not so complicated to access and don’t require any fuel hoses to be detached. Our photo shows an Audi A3 8P where the fuel filter is being changed on its diesel BKD engine. The lid of the housing needs to be removed to change the fuel filter. No connections to it need to be detached. However, on the V10-engined VW Touareg, there are two fuel filters fitted inside a housing. The lid of the housing can be removed to change them, but the fuel lines to it need detaching.

Remove the fuel filter

When the fuel filter is ready to be removed, carefully lift it out. If fuel is dripping out, have a drain tray and rags ready. Wear gloves to protect your skin. Check that none of the fuel lines have started to leak fuel.

Fit the new fuel filter

If the fuel filter is secured to a housing, then it may need to be unscrewed or somehow detached from it. A water sensor may also need to be detached from the old fuel filter and fitted to the new one. If a lid had to be removed to access the fuel filter, then there may be a new seal to fit.

In some cases, the new filter can simply be lowered into position inside the mounting bracket or cage. There may be markers on the side of the fuel filter to show exactly where it needs to be fitted. This will ensure the fuel lines can be refitted in the correct order and any electrical plugs.

Reassembly

It may be possible or necessary to add some fresh fuel to the fuel filter before reassembling it. This will help to run the engine and reduce the risk of air locks.

Secure the fuel filter and reconnect any electrical plugs. All of the fuel hoses may need to be refitted, but that depends on whether the fuel system needs priming.

Priming

Removing air locks from the fuel system can be a major problem after fitting a new fuel filter. Prefilling the fuel filter can help, if it’s possible. Some fuel systems have a small hand pump close to the fuel filter. This enables the fuel system to be primed to remove air locks – a bleed screw may need to be released. In other cases, a hand pump can be attached in line, as shown in our photo.

Some cars require the ignition to be switched on and off several times to help prime the fuel system.

Whatever the method, once the engine is running, check for fuel leaks before finishing the job.

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As a motorist with many vehicles, it was always ideal for me to have a jump-starter in the garage. A jump-starter is so much easier to use than using jump-leads from one ‘good’ car battery to the ‘dead’ one. All my previous jump-starters have had an internal battery incorporated into the pack, which makes them rather hefty lumps to haul around. With newer developments, these types of jump-starters are now a tad lighter as manufacturers make use of lithium batteries – smaller, but still packing a punch. Come up to the most recent times and we now have these even smaller pocket-sized jump-starters available – and they aren’t frightened by large engines. To test the usefulness of these devices ourselves, we got hands-on with one of the market’s current options. So, without further ado, here’s our Ring Jump-Starter 360 review.

Specs & Features

This RPPL360 model I’m testing here starts petrol engines up to 6.0-litre and 3.0-litre diesels. And it weighs just 840g – light enough to pick up with one hand. I have used this jump-starter on three of my ‘dead’ cars – they all fired into life within a few turns of the ignition key. What more can I say…

Well, as you can see in the image above, the RPPL360 offers the user a ‘state of charge’ in the form of four blue indicator lights with a power ‘on’ button beside. Once active, you can press the power button for two seconds and a bright white LED light will illuminate on the side of the unit – press it again and the light will perform a SOS light sequence. Then, press it again for a strobe effect.

More impressive though, is that the jump-starter comes with two types of charging cables – both 450mm long – a Type C to Type C and a Type C to USB. You can use either of them to charge the jump-starter or charge other electronic devices via the powerbank facility. Stuff like smartphones, tablets and so on. DP30W Type C charging will recharge the depleted jump-starter in about 1.5hrs, while using the USB cable it will take 4.5hrs. You can use the jump-starter on all 12V batteries including lead acid, EFB, AGM, Gel and Calcium. You should attach the positive lead first and then the negative to the 12V. On the side of the clamps unit a light will illuminate red to show that correct connectivity has been achieved.

The Test

I connected the Ring RPPL360 battery jump-starter to my Audi A4 cabriolet 1.8T, which had sat idle for nearly 12 months. The engine turned over four or five times, then burst into life. The Ring jump-starter made easy work of starting this four-cylinder unit with a dead 096 battery. Connection to my 21-year-old MINI was easy enough – the dead 12V was given a burst of new life by the Ring RPPL360 just as simply.

Once you’ve hooked-up your jump-starter to a dead vehicle, you are advised to wait 30 seconds before operating the ignition key. I usually turn the ignition on and then wait again for another 30 seconds or so to get the ECU talking to various sensors before trying to attempt starting the engine. With the engine running, my advice is to keep the jump-starter in place until it is time to drive off or you decide to stop the engine. On removal, take the negative lead off first.

This is now my go-to jump-starter – lightweight, easy to handle in the engine bay – and has started every engine I’ve tested it on. A cheaper model called the Ring RPPL260 is on offer if you don’t require such a powerful device – this starts engines up to 4.0 petrol and 2.0 diesel and weighs just 720g. If that would suit you nicely, check out the link below:

Words by Martyn Knowles. Review sourced from Car Mechanics.

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